Project hiccup and need help please

hippy

Ex-Staff (retired)
I still don't know if there is a error in the code for the opto and as I am a complete novice on codes I hope someone can check it for me please.
If the code is the same as originally then the opto trigger is simply setting pin 4 high then low ( or vice-versa ) and there's test code in post #9 to allow the opto to be tested.

If you have altered the code then post your latest so people can check to see if the changes have affected the working of the code.
 

bfgstew

Senior Member
I am running the original code.

Voltage at opto switch, so 08M2 is switching when required.

Looks like the camera may be the problem, maybe need just a simple switching relay instead of an opto?????

Will rig up a LED to see if it switched, just to satisfy my curiosity.
 

eclectic

Moderator
I am running the original code.

Voltage at opto switch, so 08M2 is switching when required.

Looks like the camera may be the problem, maybe need just a simple switching relay instead of an opto?????

Will rig up a LED to see if it switched, just to satisfy my curiosity.
How, exactly have you wired the two leads
from the camera?

e
 

bfgstew

Senior Member
I have 'belled' out the wires and wired up according to the pin out from Nikon.

Just tried an LED across opto outputs and nothing, not a flicker, nothing, nowt, zero................?
 

hippy

Ex-Staff (retired)
Just tried an LED across opto outputs and nothing, not a flicker, nothing, nowt, zero................?
Which legs of the opto-coupler are you actually connecting to ? The photo you posted earlier does not seem to have the wires going from the correct legs.

Added : "across opto outputs"; that won't work, you need to switch current through the LED using the opto. A more detailed explanation of how things are wired will help.
 

hippy

Ex-Staff (retired)
Hope this helps....................!
It does, emitter (leg 4) should go to 0V and I have always left base ( leg 6 ) unconnected on the opto's I've used.

Eclectics datasheet link in post #42 shows the pinout.
 

eclectic

Moderator
Stewart, have you put a multimeter across the two wires
from the Nikon D200?

I've just re-tested mine.

+ 4.83 volts compared to the nominal ground wire.

The polarity must be correct when connecting to the optocoupler.

e
 

bfgstew

Senior Member
No, still no good!

Looks like the opto may be shot, will order new ones.

Out of intrest, how many opto's can be triggered off one 08M2? I was wondering about having 3 triggered at the same time. 1 for camera and the other 2 for off camera flashes?
 

eclectic

Moderator
No, still no good!

Looks like the opto may be shot, will order new ones.

Out of intrest, how many opto's can be triggered off one 08M2? I was wondering about having 3 triggered at the same time. 1 for camera and the other 2 for off camera flashes?
Last post tonight.

Buy, say a Picaxe 18M2.

Lots of outputs and inputs.

e
 

bfgstew

Senior Member
Many thanks for your help e, been informative and much appreciated.

Will keep you posted on outcome.

Cheers

Stewart
 

bfgstew

Senior Member
e - Have ordered some CNY 17 opto's.

On your diagram, it only shows 2 wires, going to pins 4 and 5 on the opto. There are 3 on the cable, from pins 4, 6 and 9 as on the attached diagram, how did you connect yours up?

cny 17 layout.JPG
 

Paix

Senior Member
While you wait Bfgstw:

Not shure wjhere your auto focus goes, but I hope this helps until e. gets up and about in the morning to answer your query.

The current limiting resistor can be placed on whichever side of the LED that takes your fancy.

Of course the LED could be connected with the Cathode to the PICAXE output pin and the Anode to the PICAXE +Ve supply to sink rather than to source current and light the LED when the output is low, rather than high as is the current case. If this paragraph confuses, then please feel free to ignore it.

4N25pic.jpg
 

eclectic

Moderator
@Stewart
A Nikon MC25 lead plugs into the camera.
The socket on the outlet side has only two connections.
A cannibalised lead from a Nikon MC-12A continues
to the Picaxe end.

Now, earlier on in the thread, you said that shorting out
two of the wires caused the shutter to fire.
Does that still happen?

@Ian. Please see post #57

e
 

bfgstew

Senior Member
e - The cable I am using has 3 wires, from pins 4, 6 and 9. If i twist 4 and 9 together and short with 6, it fires the camera. If i short them individually nothing happens.

Stewart
 

eclectic

Moderator
e - The cable I am using has 3 wires, from pins 4, 6 and 9. If i twist 4 and 9 together and short with 6, it fires the camera. If i short them individually nothing happens.

Stewart
OK, fine.
So, does that then focus and fire?
If so, we're nearly there.

e
 

eclectic

Moderator
No it just fires!

Stewart
When I fire hte Nikon via the MC-25 adapter;

1. It triggers the shutter.
2. Then it focuses.
3. Trigger again and it's fine.

Could you re-check what your setup does, when shorting?

e

It's a bit like being at Wimbledon,
with an hour between each shot. :)
 

eclectic

Moderator
:))
Funnies side, the lead I used is a "leftover"
from my old Nikon F90X

I have a modern lead, which I haven't (yet) cannibalised,
which focuses then fires.

e
 

bfgstew

Senior Member
e -

With the shutter release and auto focus wires together, when touched by the ground it fires the camera, in manual. In auto it only auto focuses???
When ground and auto focus cables touch, it focuses. When ground and shutter are touched, nothing happens.
 

eclectic

Moderator
e -

With the shutter release and auto focus wires together, when touched by the ground it fires the camera, in manual. In auto it only auto focuses???
When ground and auto focus cables touch, it focuses. When ground and shutter are touched, nothing happens.

Ta.
Looks like you might be able to use two outputs
to sort out focus, then to fire.
An 18M2, as mentioned earlier

I've only got one modern wired-remote at the moment,
and I don't want to take it apart until I have a replacement.

Got the CNY-17 yet?

e
 

bfgstew

Senior Member
The CNY-17's are coming tomorrow, so will have a try with those first.

I have seen a sketch, albeit, very poor of a circuit with 2 opto's to trigger but it was very hard to make head nor tail of it, plus how would you trigger 2 opto's from 1 output?
 

eclectic

Moderator
The CNY-17's are coming tomorrow, so will have a try with those first.

I have seen a sketch, albeit, very poor of a circuit with 2 opto's to trigger but it was very hard to make head nor tail of it, plus how would you trigger 2 opto's from 1 output?
You do not trigger two opto's from one output.

You use two separate outputs on a bigger Picaxe..

simplified

If triggerpin = 1 then

High focuspin
pause 500

High Firepin
Pause 100

low Focuspin.

Low Firepin

Sit and wait

e
 

bfgstew

Senior Member
Ah, I see.

It's been a long day, been up since 5 and its beginning to take its toll.....................!

I have just thought, I do not need auto focus, as I will be focus stacking, the camera will be in manual mode........am I being dumb???
 
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