PICAXE14M2 Programing board

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Polaris Jim

New Member
Sure will. I see you're new here too. Curiosity got me on these Picaxe's. Stems from trying the Basic Stamps 1 & 2 15 years ago. I also have an OOpic version A.2. Didn't do so good with it. I just bought an Arduino Uno too. My head is gonna be spinning. I gotta try to learn C code as well as this.. I'll be ok..
 
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westaust55

Moderator
Yes it will work.

Not knowing what/how you intend to use it, it may be warranted to add a resistor, say 220 Ohms, in series with each IO point. That way any shorts to ground or supply will not over load the current rating of the IO pins (max 20 mA each) leading to the escape of the "magic smoke".
 
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jpacman

Member
i intend to use the SIL 2 and 3 for adding my components in the debugging stage of the program to check everything is working correctly
 
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jpacman

Member
I did think about that but one of them has a different pin layout so that wouldn't be do able unless i have a switch to swap the copper tracks

Edit: its the 18M2
 
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ZOR

Senior Member
Yes it will work okay, but westaust55 suggested having resistors on I/O'sto prevent accidental damage which is a good idea, stops you getting that "It's too late cooking smell" I might be wrong, just me, but I would put the ceramic capacitor closer to the Picaxe.
 
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Goeytex

Senior Member
jpacman said:
I did think about that but one of them has a different pin layout so that wouldn't be do able unless i have a switch to swap the copper tracks

Edit: its the 18M2
Click to expand...
A 20 pin socket would allow you to also program 20M2 & 20X2. Yes, the 18 pin devices are excluded.
 
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jpacman

Member
another option i could use is have a pin swaping system to change the serial pins and power pins so i could use the 18M2
 
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nick12ab

Senior Member
Decoupling capacitors should be placed as near to the power pins of the microcontroller as possible. There is room on that board to have the decoupling capacitor next to the IC, the other side of R1.
 
hippy

hippy

Ex-Staff (retired)
If you are including I/O connections on the board it would also be worth adding a B.0 connection. It might be worth adding 0V, even V+, connections alongside the I/O.

I would also add a LED+R across V+ and 0V so you can tell when power is applied to the board.
 
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tony_g

Senior Member
hippy said:
If you are including I/O connections on the board it would also be worth adding a B.0 connection. It might be worth adding 0V, even V+, connections alongside the I/O.

I would also add a LED+R across V+ and 0V so you can tell when power is applied to the board.
Click to expand...
dont forget c.0, sooner or later you will find you need to use every pin available via the disconnect command and it wont be available with current board design, i tend to find that no matter what chip i use now im always able to fill up every pin with something for it to do.
 
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StigOfTheDump

Senior Member
Sometimes it is more convenient to use DIL resistor arrays. If you make the spacing on your PCB slightly narrower you would have this option.
 
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westaust55

Moderator
It can be very useful to purchase a breadboard and try out ideas before building up on a PCB if you are unsure.
Then if it does not work ask your questions.
 
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Goeytex

Senior Member
and il be using this serial to USB converter
Click to expand...
That adapter will not work unless you invert both the RX and TX data signals. This means you will need to add either 2 transistors or
an inverter IC.
 
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AllyCat

Senior Member
Hi,

Looks to me that you have the LED directly across the supply rails in #25. It needs a series resistor unless you use a special (built-in current source) type. Personally, I don't think that DIL (or even SIL) resistor packages with separated resistors are worth bothering with for "home" projects. Probably more costly and difficult to obtain, less flexible and no space saved over mounting standard resistors vertically.

jpacman said:
il be using this serial to USB converter
Click to expand...
That's a very significant risk with the basic description given (and not particularly cheap with postage added). "TTL" serial signals are normally inverted relative to PICAXE (programming) requrements and the chip might not support the essential "break signalling". The listed price may also put it in the "fake" bracket, but perhaps it's "subsidised" by the rather high shipping cost.

If price is an issue, search for manuka's recommendations of the "Blue" serial adapters. You would need to make an interface cable for the standard "9-pin sub D" COM port connector. But that could connect to the (now) PICaxe standard 3.5mm jack plug used by most PICaxe projects.

Cheers, Alan.
 
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jpacman

Member
ok so iv already ordered the USB adapter but if it will not work and i need to invert the signals, how do i invert the signal ?

Would this adapter be ok ?
 
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V

ValueAdd

Senior Member
There is little to be gained by "bumping".
If people know they will help - if they don't then no answer.

If no one else has used the cable you propose then they cannot be sure.
I recall that the downfall of some of these USB type cables is lack of support for the USB "Break" command.
It may cost a little more but the axe027 as sold by PICAXE and here in Australia by Willtronics and a Altronics will work.
 
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