Hello Everyone,
I have just finished building my first PICAXE project and I'm elated to report that it's working !
I did some research (no too much) before endeavoring to build an LED cube , and I found that on most builds people used LED drivers IC's connected through I2C. Not knowing that much about I2C protocol and addressing, I've then decide to build my cube using little more than transistors.
I've done the wiring diagram in ExpressPCB, which is free and very easy to use. I've then printed and transferred the circuit onto a board and started my adventure.
The cube revolves around the PICAXE 40x2, due to the fact that it has the most outputs, as 30 outputs are required to build a 5^3 cube with no i2c multiplexing.
Each layer is powered through a BD135 (NPN) transistor and all the 25 LED's on a layer are then sunk to ground via 3 Darlington arrays (ULN 2830) + one BV547 -so it adds up to 25. The load is also divided through 25 resistors (100Ohms).
The PIC itself has a voltage regulator (LM7805 + 4 capacitors) , just to make sure I don't fry it
As this is entirely designed by me, I'm sure it has plenty of bugs , therefore any comments on the whole thing are welcomed.
This is the wiring diagram:
click to view
This is the ExpressPCB file: click to download
The simplest way to build an LED cube is to construct a rig to hold it all in place. I've used a 5 millimeters drill bit and a plank that I had.
I've drawn the matrix using a ruler and a pencil and got "old sparky" (my boring machine) out of the closet.
click to view
I've then soldered the anods of the LED in a matrix. After that I've added a touch of molted plastic between the leads to prevent short circuits and to fix it in place.
click to view
At the end of the day that's how the cube looked. I know it's not very pretty, but it does the trick.
click to view
Now to build the PCB board.
I've printed the diagram on a laser printer (must be laser) using glossy photo paper.
If you want to to this, I advise not to buy the cheapest paper, as it is really hard to clean afterwards.
click to view
I've then cut the printed part using a new cutter. You must be careful not to touch the paper as grease from your hands might prevent the ink from transferring.
Once I got the paper cut, I've then used a small saw (or whatever that is called in her's Majesty Language ) and cut out the pcb.
click to view
Once you got that sorted. You need to clean the copper side using dish washing detergent and the abrasive side of a sponge.
If will look quite scratched, but that's good as it offers the ink a good surface to stick to.
With all that done, I've placed the paper over the copper side and ironed it really well (just like ironing a shirt).
Be careful as the surfaces gets very hot. With that sorted, I've then rinsed the whole thing in warm water, peeled of the paper and scrubbed the now printed copper with a tooth brush. Dipped it in worm feric cloride for 4 minutes and ...voila ! the PCB board.
click to view
The next step I did ,was to drill the 0.7 mm holes for the IC sockets and so on. Well, all except the voltage regulator (LM7805) and the BD transistors , as they required 1mm holes. So does the jack socket.
click to view
With that sorted, I've then added all the parts to the board , starting with the jumper wires, then the IC sockets and so on.
click to view
I kept the diagram on the computer's monitor to cross-reference where things go. I also checked various connection points on the board using the multimeter to ensure that parts got properly soldered.
Then comes the tricky part. I've enlisted the help of a friend and even so it took us about 45-50 minutes to mount the cube.
Getting the LED cube cathodes in the PCB board , it's not an easy task , as they warp and you run the risk of breaking them.
Oh ! Just before fitting the cube to the board I ran 5 small wires from each level down to where all the cathodes were. In that way I could connect them easily to the board afterwards with a small set of tweezers.
click to view
With everything in the right place, I've quickly plugged the wire to the computer's serial port and did a quick program.
P.S. The way I wired the jack socket is specific to me . It has nothing to do with the PICAXE cable ! Just using the same socket - not the same pinout
I turned the power on ... and IT WORKED.
click to view
Even my cat seems to be enjoying it
This is a video, of a test run. The software is not all done .. but , it does very neat stuff
Thanks for reading my lengthy post. Feel free to comment.
Cheers,
Claudiu
I have just finished building my first PICAXE project and I'm elated to report that it's working !
I did some research (no too much) before endeavoring to build an LED cube , and I found that on most builds people used LED drivers IC's connected through I2C. Not knowing that much about I2C protocol and addressing, I've then decide to build my cube using little more than transistors.
I've done the wiring diagram in ExpressPCB, which is free and very easy to use. I've then printed and transferred the circuit onto a board and started my adventure.
The cube revolves around the PICAXE 40x2, due to the fact that it has the most outputs, as 30 outputs are required to build a 5^3 cube with no i2c multiplexing.
Each layer is powered through a BD135 (NPN) transistor and all the 25 LED's on a layer are then sunk to ground via 3 Darlington arrays (ULN 2830) + one BV547 -so it adds up to 25. The load is also divided through 25 resistors (100Ohms).
The PIC itself has a voltage regulator (LM7805 + 4 capacitors) , just to make sure I don't fry it
As this is entirely designed by me, I'm sure it has plenty of bugs , therefore any comments on the whole thing are welcomed.
This is the wiring diagram:
click to view
This is the ExpressPCB file: click to download
The simplest way to build an LED cube is to construct a rig to hold it all in place. I've used a 5 millimeters drill bit and a plank that I had.
I've drawn the matrix using a ruler and a pencil and got "old sparky" (my boring machine) out of the closet.
click to view
I've then soldered the anods of the LED in a matrix. After that I've added a touch of molted plastic between the leads to prevent short circuits and to fix it in place.
click to view
At the end of the day that's how the cube looked. I know it's not very pretty, but it does the trick.
click to view
Now to build the PCB board.
I've printed the diagram on a laser printer (must be laser) using glossy photo paper.
If you want to to this, I advise not to buy the cheapest paper, as it is really hard to clean afterwards.
click to view
I've then cut the printed part using a new cutter. You must be careful not to touch the paper as grease from your hands might prevent the ink from transferring.
Once I got the paper cut, I've then used a small saw (or whatever that is called in her's Majesty Language ) and cut out the pcb.
click to view
Once you got that sorted. You need to clean the copper side using dish washing detergent and the abrasive side of a sponge.
If will look quite scratched, but that's good as it offers the ink a good surface to stick to.
With all that done, I've placed the paper over the copper side and ironed it really well (just like ironing a shirt).
Be careful as the surfaces gets very hot. With that sorted, I've then rinsed the whole thing in warm water, peeled of the paper and scrubbed the now printed copper with a tooth brush. Dipped it in worm feric cloride for 4 minutes and ...voila ! the PCB board.
click to view
The next step I did ,was to drill the 0.7 mm holes for the IC sockets and so on. Well, all except the voltage regulator (LM7805) and the BD transistors , as they required 1mm holes. So does the jack socket.
click to view
With that sorted, I've then added all the parts to the board , starting with the jumper wires, then the IC sockets and so on.
click to view
I kept the diagram on the computer's monitor to cross-reference where things go. I also checked various connection points on the board using the multimeter to ensure that parts got properly soldered.
Then comes the tricky part. I've enlisted the help of a friend and even so it took us about 45-50 minutes to mount the cube.
Getting the LED cube cathodes in the PCB board , it's not an easy task , as they warp and you run the risk of breaking them.
Oh ! Just before fitting the cube to the board I ran 5 small wires from each level down to where all the cathodes were. In that way I could connect them easily to the board afterwards with a small set of tweezers.
click to view
With everything in the right place, I've quickly plugged the wire to the computer's serial port and did a quick program.
P.S. The way I wired the jack socket is specific to me . It has nothing to do with the PICAXE cable ! Just using the same socket - not the same pinout
I turned the power on ... and IT WORKED.
click to view
Even my cat seems to be enjoying it
This is a video, of a test run. The software is not all done .. but , it does very neat stuff
Thanks for reading my lengthy post. Feel free to comment.
Cheers,
Claudiu