Trying to perfect a simple 28X1 circuit board.

[Ruzzy]

I've designed this board by working from the default components set by Crocodile Technology, and using realPCB to make the majority of the tracks(good god I hate how every time I export to realPCB, half the tracks get erased because they're connected to empty pads. even when you disable track modifying )

Anyway, I only expect to use 2 ADC pins and 2 hpwm pins, but I connected a few extra empty "pads" to other input/output pins just in case I decide to modify my school project. So here it is. Can someone do a check on this for me to see if there's anything that needs changing? I'm not a fan of the neatness(or lack of) on it, but I wont fuss about that. Thanks in advance.

 

[hippy]

It's very hard to tell if the board is right because a number of power and 0V connections are missing or not joined, it's not clear where power input connects from. If you sent those images off to have a PCB built from it won't work.

 

[Ruzzy]

I'm going to etch it myself. Sorry I didn't mention I already saw the absence of the positive and 0V tracks. But if this circuit is said to be otherwise okay, I'd add those tracks tomorrow morning.

 

[MartinM57]

You have to use the outer pins of the pairs on the jack socket - the inner ones aren't connected to the plug when it is inserted.

I've no idea if the PCB is correct for the circuit you want - as you haven't given us the circuit. Remember, circuit design doesn't start with the PCB - it usually ends there!

 

[Ruzzy]

Alrighty. Thanks for telling me about the jack. The circuit is actually the minimal circuit of a 28X1, just with extra tracks for those input and output pins that connect to unoccupied pads that I mentioned in the OP.

 

[hippy]

The rest of the circuit appears to be fine.

If you move the reset pull-up R to the right of the PICAXE ( so it jumps over the Serial Out line ) and route the +V to that through the PICAXE that may allow you to break out additional I/O lines.

It would also be worthwhile adding a 100nF decouplig capacitor across the power rails, and I'd also suggest a LED + R so you can tell when the board is powered.

 

[Ruzzy]

Great. Many thanks to all of you.