Keep the blinds open but no direct sunlight please

jabraham

New Member
My project is working, although I'm still tweaking things both in code and electrically.

It's a program for PICAXE 08M2 microcontroller to keep blinds open to allow maximum light up to a setpoint.
Tweaks the blinds open now and then to try to get more light in, unless the light goes above the setpoint, then it
turns them down until the setpoint.

Circuit needs a gearbox motor attached to the swivel device that opens or closes venetian blinds.

Based on original circuit/program by Randy Crowell
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-A-Motorized-Window-Blinds-Controller-For-Les/
Circuit was modified as follows:
* 1 button attached to pin 3 (with pulldown resistors as specified in picaxe manual) (other button removed)
* Motor switched by another relay instead of directly by darlington array, and on completely separate set of batteries (hope to switch this back to original design)
* 3X 220nf capacitor in series with 120ohm resistor to ground, as low pass filter to reduce noise, these are attached as follows, to 5V rail, to low voltage side of each relay coil

(I had electrical noise problems that kept resetting the PicAXE, presumably because the supply votage dropped momentarily. Moving the motor
to a separate set of batteries, having it switched by the relay,
and adding the low pass filters has solved the problem.)

Designed to keep my office bright, but to close the blinds when the sun shines directly in, because bright sun glares off my computer monitor.
Closing the blinds manually when the sun shines was easy enough, but opening them back up
(and keeping them at the optimum position)
when the sun goes behind a cloud or building, or moves up or down with the time of day in overcast conditions,
required dedication or some automation with a microcontroller.
I wasn't getting up every 15 minutes to tweak the blinds, so I was
sitting in the dark all day if the sun peaked through the clouds at 9AM.

This program could also be used to maintain bright indirect sun on plants (most house plants want lots of light, but not direct sunlight,
which can scorch their leaves and dry them out.)
 

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vttom

Senior Member
You should consider posting a video of the project in action. A time-lapse video of a whole work day would be really cool.
 

BRTirupathi

New Member
Hi Mr.Jabraham, Could you please advice your schematic diagram with connections. I have read through your code but it makes difficult to understand & implement without a circuit.
Thanks.
 

westaust55

Moderator
Hi Mr.Jabraham, Could you please advice your schematic diagram with connections. I have read through your code but it makes difficult to understand & implement without a circuit.
Thanks.

Welcome to the PICAXE forum.

Jabraham has already advised:

Based on original circuit/program by Randy Crowell
http://www.instructables.com/id/Buil...oller-For-Les/
Circuit was modified as follows:
which is followed by three points for the circuit mods and how PICAXE resetting was overcome.
The link given is still working today.

The same information is provided in the remarks at the start of the program.
Can you not download the original circuit diagram and hand draw in or redraw to incorporate the mentioned modifications.
 
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jabraham

New Member
Thanks westaust55. Yes, it shouldn't be too hard for someone else to follow my instructions. If I was satisfied with my circuit I'd draw it an upload the "finished" drawing, but I'm still unhappy because a) I'm using 2 larger relays so it doesn't fit into my project box, and b) I'm using 2 sets of batteries (completely separate set to power the motor).

I've also run into an intermittent problem when the control batteries start to die, there is still enough juice to turn the on-off relay, but not enough to turn the forward-reverse relay. So the blinds get all wound up when the batteries are starting to die. I think I can redeploy the darlington array bits to guarantee the opposite, that when the batteries are weak the forward-reverse relay will work but the on-off relay won't.

I'm also curious as to why the control circuit batteries die after only a month or two, and seem to last for less time than the batteries that are turning the motor. Checking the light level every 10s surely can't take much power! Perhaps I need to pair the light resisting diode with a larger resistor, maybe when the sun is shining bright there is too much power going through the light measuring circuit. I can check with the meter to figure out where the milliamps are going. I sleep the picaxe for seconds at a time, so I doubt the picaxe is the power hog. The other possibilities are that my noise-filtering capacitors are leaking.

Anyway, there is more than enough information in my program to figure out how to build this thing. But I do intend to upload a circuit diagram sometime soon.
 
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