Controlling a 120V AC Motor

firestorm961

New Member
I am working on a project where I need to control a motor that runs on 120V AC, anywhere between 1-5 amps. I seem to be at a loss at finding a suitable relay, mosfet, or even photocoupler to handle this. Any suggestions on hardware to do this?
 

inglewoodpete

Senior Member
120v AC is a lethal voltage. If you are at a loss to know how to control a 120v motor, I suggest you may not be ready to work with mains voltages.

Please consider this risk to your life. The mains is not something you experiment with.
 

BeanieBots

Moderator
For safety reasons use a relay. There must be hundreds of suitable ones available.
How are you powering the PICAXE?
If you have 12v/24v available, then your relay choice gets even larger.

I also agree with the comments made by inglewoodpete.
 

firestorm961

New Member
Not so much at a loss on controlling the motor, just finding the correct hardware to not destroy a picaxe. I deal with 240V all the time at work, I'm just new to using microcontrollers.

edit: using a 9V power source, regulating it to 5V for the picaxe of course.
 

Andrew Cowan

Senior Member
You could use a triac, but I would recommend a relay. Much simpler, easier, and safer. Note tha you'll need a transistor (BC639?) between the PICAXE and relay coil.

A
 

firestorm961

New Member
Thanks for everyone's advice. Between what was said here, some more research, and a schematic doing very close to what I am looking for, I've got it figured out.
 

KMoffett

Senior Member
No one has mentioned SSR's (solid state relays). The input LED on these can be driven directly from a PICAXE output, some without even an external resistor. The output current rating should be doubled for an inductive loads like motors. They are frequently available on sale from MPJA for a reasonable price: http://www.mpja.com/products.asp?dept=133

Ken
 

gengis

New Member
KMoffett Agreed SSR's are hard to beat for rugged on-off mains switching and a safe way to do it.

One caveat: they leak, so bear that in mind. The load is usually enough to drop the voltage caused by leakage - but open circuit, or with light loads, you may see some voltage there.

You can build an SSR for lots less than a new one costs. ~$1--2 for a triac and $0.20 for a zero crossing opto isolator, last time I stocked up.

Don't sell the z-cross opto isolators short either - they can control about an amp directly, so are great for driving electromechanical relays, solenoid valves, equipment power switches, etc.

One of my stoves range controls has a picaxe controlling the heat. Costs less than the $25+ they wanted for a new electromechanical control. One DPDT relay for safety, but modulation of the heater is done by a SSR under control by a picaxe. Working like a champ for a month now - with a tricolor led flashing the power setting. I like it so much, I plan to replace the working controls with more picaxe ones. The range eats 7 amps at 240 volts. The old bimetalic controller had a period of 45 seconds for PWM control and the 'axe is working at 3 seconds with a slow pwm output.
 

westaust55

Moderator
Companies like Omron and Finder make the sort of relay you need.
A bit of a quick search is all you need do. Have to know who the suppliers are near you in the US when I am half way around the world (and down under)

but here is a start after a couple of minutes:

http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pry/121/g5q.html

has relays with 5Vdc and 9Vdc coils and 125Vac contacts rated 10 Amps.

At 5Vdc the coil current is 40mA so you would need a transistor to interface between the PICAXE and the relay coil.

See PICAXE manual 3 page 23 for schematic on how to connect/drive a relay/solenoid coil
 
Last edited:

Andrew Cowan

Senior Member
One of the problems with SSR is that some have problems switching inductive loads. Relays do not - they are your best bet.

A
 

westaust55

Moderator
One of the problems with SSR is that some have problems switching inductive loads. Relays do not - they are your best bet.

A

Andrew that is not entirely true. If you get a datasheet for any relay that gives full data you will find that the max switching current with an inductive load is less than with a resistive load. Reducing the relay contact current rating is the method of overcoming the "problems".
 

Andrew Cowan

Senior Member
some have problems switching inductive loads
Westaust55 said:
Andrew that is not entirely true. If you get a datasheet for any relay that gives full data you will find that the max switching current with an inductive load is less than with a resistive load. Reducing the relay contact current rating is the method of overcoming the "problems".

I was basing my comment on a datasheet that said 'not recommended for use with inductive loads' (as far as I remember). I'll see if I can dig it out.

A
 
Last edited:

BeanieBots

Moderator
The other potential problem with zero crossing type SSRs is that they can sometime fail to turn off with very reactive loads.
 

kevrus

New Member
Relay/contactor contacts often have two current ratings...
These are...

AC1 which is primarily used for resistive loads (i.e. heating elements)
AC3 which is a lower rating to be used for inductive loads (i.e. motors)
 

Peter M

Senior Member
interesting comments... I did read that they are not recommended for inductive loads somewhere too.:confused:

But I thought I'd suck it and see....
10 months on. Running a water pump (600w induction motor from memory) directly from a picaxe. (inductive enough??)
interface couldn't be more simple, a wire from the bread board to the SSR.

Probably time it moved to a PCB, but lets not rush things!:D
 
Top