I was looking for the Finished Project Post Area and could not find it, so I am posting here, hope that is OK.
The PICAXE-40 has been out for a while now and there needs to be PICAXE project using the PICAXE-40X1. This is such a project. This PICAXE project is intended to be a part of a larger project for Hobbyist and Engineers; it is small, light and cheap. It is about the size of a credit card. It weights about an ounce. This PICAXE project has a component cost, including U1 and U14, of under $40US.
Parts List:
C1 10UU@50VWDC Jameco 852473 or Radio Shack # 27-1025
C2 .001U@50WVDC Jameco 15192 or Radio Shack # 27-210126
C3 0.01U@35WVDC Jameco 15231 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
C4 22U@35WVDC Jameco 545887 or Radio Shack # 27-21026
C5 0.1U@35WVDC Jameco 545561 or Radio Shack # 27-21069
C6 0.1U@35WVDC Jameco 545561 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
C7 0.1U@35WVDC Jameco 545561 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
C8 0.01U@35WVDC Jameco 15231 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
C9 0.01U@35WVDC Jameco 15231 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
C10 0.01U@35WVDC Jameco 15231 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
D1 RED LED Radio Shack #27-60041
D2 IN5819 (DO-41 case) Schottky, 40V 1A Digikey #1N5819-E3/STGI-ND
D3 1N4007 (DO-41 case) any power rectifier diode of at least 250Vpiv and 3A will do.
DIP-8 Jameco 112206 order enough for locations U2 thru U12.
DIP-8 Oscillator Socket Jameco 676385 for U13
DIP-40 Jameco 112311 any DIP sockets will do
JP1 3.5mm Stereo female connector Mouser # 806-STX-3500-3C
PWB1 order from EXPRESSPCB
R1 10 K 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11126
R2 22 K 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11128
R3 47 K 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11130
R4 330 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11215
R5 180 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11205
R6 47 K 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11130
R7 47 K 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11130
RN1 10 KX10 SIP Jameco 280947
RN2 10 KX10 SIP Jameco 280947
SW1 Push Button Switch NO, Jameco 122973
U1 LM7805 Jameco 786138 or Radio Shack 276-1770
U14 PICAXE-40X1 (Enhanced) sales@hvwtech.com or www.microchip.com
X1 4MHz ceramic resonator Jameco 324697CJ or www.microchip.com
JP2 RC battery Connector Repair Kit Radio Shack #23-00444, solder the male half to PWB and use female half of this kit for the Wall-Wart power supply.
Any NULL-MODEM cable, cut in half and each half along with male 3.5mm Stereo connector makes a programming cable.
How to build this PICAXE Project: Print out the parts list and buy three copies of each part., wait for the parts to come in before ordering the printed wiring board, as you need to double check the part’s foot print against the PWB. When all is OK, then download the free software from www.expresspcb.com There should be a file attached to this post marked download and then rename this file: PICAXEEnhancedE.pcb (open with the Express PCB software) and then click on the Layout button, this will allow you to buy the PWB, they are three boards for $51US plus shipping. When you get the PWB, print out the Silkscreen layer, but not in color and print it out in expanded mode so you can see the component placement. Use the component placement, the schematic and the parts list to locate where to stuff components. Any questions then e-mail me: bigjoe@valp.net .
Stuff the PWB and solder. For this project U1 is soldered-in, and the PICAXE-40X1 is inserted into U14 socket, the rest of the IC Sockets are reserved for future projects.
How I soldered: Let me tell you how I had to solder to make this work, it might save you a wasted board. This PWB is small, light and cheap! This PWB is just a slight bit larger than a credit card. Since everything is so small and jammed together, the fabrication of this Board is at the high end of the expected Hobbyist Soldering Skill level. Soldering all of these 8-pin DIP sockets is frustrating, just one solder blob or bridge will ruin everything, and there are no provisions for re-work. Due to the close spacing on some of the DIP sockets there is a requirement for order of assembly. Here is what I found I had to do to get things to work: insert the sockets for U4, U5 then solder; U6, U7 and U8 then solder; U9 and U10 then solder; U11 and U12 then solder. The rest are easier. I found that I needed to use a bright light and 6X magnifier to see to solder; also a pencil iron with a narrow conical tip, a 0.020 (or 1/32) tip and some 0.031 thin multi-core rosin solder to do this job.
My design philosophy: Put all hardware parts that are not going to change from project to project on the Processor Board. Put anything else on the Interface Board. This PICAXE Project is the Processor Board; from project to project nothing will change further on this PWB, except seating some IC into their sockets and the loading of new software.
Power All the power is conditioned on the Processor Board and pass from this board to the other boards via the 50 pin ribbon cable.
Programming I put all the components for the programming circuit on this processor board. So a purchased PICAXE programming cable will not work with this project, you have to build your own; buy any Null-Modem Cable and cut it in half. On the cut end, bear the wire that is connected to pin 5 on the female DB-9 connector and solder this to the shell of the 3.5mm male stereo connector. Same with DB-9 pin 2 to 3.5mm pin 2 and DB-9 pin 3 to 3.5mm pin 1. The circuit I use is the Enhanced Programming circuit, when the BASIC Editor/Compiler/Simulator is used in Simulator/System Monitor Mode with the PICAXE running and one wants to use the Simulator Software to look at the PICAXE’s Registers, the programming circuit given in the PICAXE Users Manuel page will give false readings for the ADC inputs. This circuit fixes that problem; this has been discussed in this Forum before.
Ups and Downs I use RN1 to pull-down all the PICAXE-40’s ADC pins, this helps reduce noise. I use RN2 to pull-up the Input Pins. If this is not the way you do things, then leave RN1 or RN2 off the board. I use the ADC for analog sensors and I put Op-Amps on the I/O Board for signal conditioning. I use the PICAXE’s Input pins for Digital or Microswitch inputs; the input will be HIGH, and with a switch closure, the pin connected to the switch will go LOW for a brief instant. See the PICASXE Users Manual for sensor design circuits, more in the next project.
Clock Decision: Often, Advanced Micros will give away a free Ceramic Resonator with the purchase of the PICAXE-40X1. The Ceramic Resonator is great at keeping cost down. But when I am doing Digital Signal Processing or Digital Signal Synthesis, the stability of a Ceramic Resonator is not good enough, so U13 is provided for a crystal oscillator. For DSP, 10ppm is desirable; 30ppm is useable; anything above 100ppm will cause problems.
I am going to try to attach a picture of the finished project.
The PICAXE-40 has been out for a while now and there needs to be PICAXE project using the PICAXE-40X1. This is such a project. This PICAXE project is intended to be a part of a larger project for Hobbyist and Engineers; it is small, light and cheap. It is about the size of a credit card. It weights about an ounce. This PICAXE project has a component cost, including U1 and U14, of under $40US.
Parts List:
C1 10UU@50VWDC Jameco 852473 or Radio Shack # 27-1025
C2 .001U@50WVDC Jameco 15192 or Radio Shack # 27-210126
C3 0.01U@35WVDC Jameco 15231 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
C4 22U@35WVDC Jameco 545887 or Radio Shack # 27-21026
C5 0.1U@35WVDC Jameco 545561 or Radio Shack # 27-21069
C6 0.1U@35WVDC Jameco 545561 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
C7 0.1U@35WVDC Jameco 545561 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
C8 0.01U@35WVDC Jameco 15231 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
C9 0.01U@35WVDC Jameco 15231 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
C10 0.01U@35WVDC Jameco 15231 or Radio Shack # 27-21065
D1 RED LED Radio Shack #27-60041
D2 IN5819 (DO-41 case) Schottky, 40V 1A Digikey #1N5819-E3/STGI-ND
D3 1N4007 (DO-41 case) any power rectifier diode of at least 250Vpiv and 3A will do.
DIP-8 Jameco 112206 order enough for locations U2 thru U12.
DIP-8 Oscillator Socket Jameco 676385 for U13
DIP-40 Jameco 112311 any DIP sockets will do
JP1 3.5mm Stereo female connector Mouser # 806-STX-3500-3C
PWB1 order from EXPRESSPCB
R1 10 K 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11126
R2 22 K 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11128
R3 47 K 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11130
R4 330 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11215
R5 180 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11205
R6 47 K 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11130
R7 47 K 1/8W 5% Radio Shack 27-11130
RN1 10 KX10 SIP Jameco 280947
RN2 10 KX10 SIP Jameco 280947
SW1 Push Button Switch NO, Jameco 122973
U1 LM7805 Jameco 786138 or Radio Shack 276-1770
U14 PICAXE-40X1 (Enhanced) sales@hvwtech.com or www.microchip.com
X1 4MHz ceramic resonator Jameco 324697CJ or www.microchip.com
JP2 RC battery Connector Repair Kit Radio Shack #23-00444, solder the male half to PWB and use female half of this kit for the Wall-Wart power supply.
Any NULL-MODEM cable, cut in half and each half along with male 3.5mm Stereo connector makes a programming cable.
How to build this PICAXE Project: Print out the parts list and buy three copies of each part., wait for the parts to come in before ordering the printed wiring board, as you need to double check the part’s foot print against the PWB. When all is OK, then download the free software from www.expresspcb.com There should be a file attached to this post marked download and then rename this file: PICAXEEnhancedE.pcb (open with the Express PCB software) and then click on the Layout button, this will allow you to buy the PWB, they are three boards for $51US plus shipping. When you get the PWB, print out the Silkscreen layer, but not in color and print it out in expanded mode so you can see the component placement. Use the component placement, the schematic and the parts list to locate where to stuff components. Any questions then e-mail me: bigjoe@valp.net .
Stuff the PWB and solder. For this project U1 is soldered-in, and the PICAXE-40X1 is inserted into U14 socket, the rest of the IC Sockets are reserved for future projects.
How I soldered: Let me tell you how I had to solder to make this work, it might save you a wasted board. This PWB is small, light and cheap! This PWB is just a slight bit larger than a credit card. Since everything is so small and jammed together, the fabrication of this Board is at the high end of the expected Hobbyist Soldering Skill level. Soldering all of these 8-pin DIP sockets is frustrating, just one solder blob or bridge will ruin everything, and there are no provisions for re-work. Due to the close spacing on some of the DIP sockets there is a requirement for order of assembly. Here is what I found I had to do to get things to work: insert the sockets for U4, U5 then solder; U6, U7 and U8 then solder; U9 and U10 then solder; U11 and U12 then solder. The rest are easier. I found that I needed to use a bright light and 6X magnifier to see to solder; also a pencil iron with a narrow conical tip, a 0.020 (or 1/32) tip and some 0.031 thin multi-core rosin solder to do this job.
My design philosophy: Put all hardware parts that are not going to change from project to project on the Processor Board. Put anything else on the Interface Board. This PICAXE Project is the Processor Board; from project to project nothing will change further on this PWB, except seating some IC into their sockets and the loading of new software.
Power All the power is conditioned on the Processor Board and pass from this board to the other boards via the 50 pin ribbon cable.
Programming I put all the components for the programming circuit on this processor board. So a purchased PICAXE programming cable will not work with this project, you have to build your own; buy any Null-Modem Cable and cut it in half. On the cut end, bear the wire that is connected to pin 5 on the female DB-9 connector and solder this to the shell of the 3.5mm male stereo connector. Same with DB-9 pin 2 to 3.5mm pin 2 and DB-9 pin 3 to 3.5mm pin 1. The circuit I use is the Enhanced Programming circuit, when the BASIC Editor/Compiler/Simulator is used in Simulator/System Monitor Mode with the PICAXE running and one wants to use the Simulator Software to look at the PICAXE’s Registers, the programming circuit given in the PICAXE Users Manuel page will give false readings for the ADC inputs. This circuit fixes that problem; this has been discussed in this Forum before.
Ups and Downs I use RN1 to pull-down all the PICAXE-40’s ADC pins, this helps reduce noise. I use RN2 to pull-up the Input Pins. If this is not the way you do things, then leave RN1 or RN2 off the board. I use the ADC for analog sensors and I put Op-Amps on the I/O Board for signal conditioning. I use the PICAXE’s Input pins for Digital or Microswitch inputs; the input will be HIGH, and with a switch closure, the pin connected to the switch will go LOW for a brief instant. See the PICASXE Users Manual for sensor design circuits, more in the next project.
Clock Decision: Often, Advanced Micros will give away a free Ceramic Resonator with the purchase of the PICAXE-40X1. The Ceramic Resonator is great at keeping cost down. But when I am doing Digital Signal Processing or Digital Signal Synthesis, the stability of a Ceramic Resonator is not good enough, so U13 is provided for a crystal oscillator. For DSP, 10ppm is desirable; 30ppm is useable; anything above 100ppm will cause problems.
I am going to try to attach a picture of the finished project.
Last edited:
It has been a while and I have forgotten how to use the Forum ...