Picaxe starter kit board to breadboard connections

Paging electronics gurus!

What is a good way to connect inputs/outputs from the picaxe 28x starterkit board to a breadboard?

Using the supplied ribbons make the breadboard end of the connection quite awkward. I simply separated and split the ribbon wire at the breadboard end. Is there a better way?

Should I buy an IDC and attach it to the other end? If so will it fit in the breadboard? I keep hearing about Molex connectors... is that a good solution? How do you guys do this!?

Well I for one put the 28X straight onto the (larger) breadboard! But for quick links consider the mini flexible jumpers below.

Those flexible links are super Stan, but not much good if your PCB has male pin headers.

I wish I could find an easy way too.

For PCB to PCB (pin headers on PCB) I use things a bit like this:-
http://uk.farnell.com/1012209/cable/product.us0?sku=molex-92321-1020&_requestid=172919
You can buy the ready-made or just buy the IDC sockets / cable and squash them , sorry, assemble them in a vice.

For PCB to breadboard I made up various pin-number-of-ways connections using Harwin header sockets like this:-
http://uk.farnell.com/7991959/connectors/product.us0?sku=harwin-m20-7821046&_requestid=173194
and soldered/heatshrinked separate wires and used individual pin-headers at other end to poke into bread-board.
(Very tedious)

And for individual wires out of a pin header I made some links with pins at one end (like Stan's example) and at the other end I crimped these on:-
http://uk.farnell.com/1022220/connectors/product.us0?sku=harwin-m20-1180046&_requestid=173369
(you can solder them too)
And then added thin-wall heat-shrink for strain-relief and insulation.
These terminals are specifically dsigned for Harwin pin-headers and are really meant for crimping and pushing into terminal housings, but can be used in this 'bodgey' way.

Sorry, I can't think of a solution that doesn't require a couple of hours effort and a couple of quid from you - I wish I could.

All I'll add is that I made them months ago and still use them so I'm glad I 'invested' the time.

(Note:Harwin is just an example, there are many other makes usng similar spec. I just tend to use Harwin and RS headers as they are top quality.)

To go from pin headers, a male servo connector gives you up to 3 pins on .1" centers (in radio control parlance, the male connector is the one that the pins go into, the female is the one with the pins - it generally has a shroud, so the gender is based on the plug body function not the pins). A standard servo extension, with the shroud pulled off, gives you a 3-pin colour coded cable for going from pin header to breadboard.

Also, Parallax makes a cable, the LCD Extension cable http://parallax.com/Store/Accessories/CablesConverters/tabid/166/List/0/CategoryID/40/Level/a/Default.aspx?SortField=ProductName,ProductName
that gives you a "male" (that anyone else would call a female) on each end, and a gender changer for one end. Having a few of these in your kit is pretty darned handy.

Remember, there is no requirement you use all 3 wires (the other 2 can just be for stability).

And, you can buy the connectors to roll your own from your local hobby store or various on-line hobby suppliers. Just remember the backwards naming convention when ordering. When shopping fro a brand, the ones designated for "JR/Universal" plugs are the easiest to deal with (Futaba have a polarity key tab that can get in the way).

US Suppliers include Tower Hobbies - one connector here: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTSH5&P=7
and Dymond RC http://www.rc-dymond.com/index.php?categoryID=36

Interestingly, if you go to a hobby store and ask for a M/M (what we would call a F/F), they will look at you like you are fresh off the shuttle from Alpha Centauri. No such thing exists in the R/C world, unless you roll you own, and why would you ever want to? But, as noted above, Parallax sells a MM and FF as a set. I found a bunch of the MM (again, what we would call FF) at Tanner Electronics on closeout once for USD$1 each. Yep, bought a couple of dozen.

They also act as an adapter for the Vex Robotics servos/motors to operate on regular old hobby RC equipment.

Cheers,

Wreno

I wish I could find an easy way too.

Click to expand...

To use those links like Stan has on his page i simply install "IC Socket Strips" cut to the right length.

They are available from electronics suppliers in strips of 20 or 32 pins - just snap them to length like header pins - EXTREMELY useful

I have populated EVERY board pad on the 28/40 starter kit board - sort of works like a combo starter kit AND breadboard now

Then Stans flexy leads plug straight in - I got my leads from SURE of eBay (bought a heap of breadboards and they chuck the leads in)

Stocky

WES (World Ed Services0 is selling a jumper kit with double female connectors.

http://world-educational-services.net/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=313

I have to say compared to similar forums, I learn quite a lot from this forum in particular! The links, pictures posted are extremely helpful.

Mycroft, using the kit from the link you provided, I think it would provide a nice connection between the 28x protoboard which has 20pin (male) header on the board for digital output where I can plug in the female end of the jumper wire and the bare end of the jumper to the breadboard!

And I learnt another useful bit of info today...always wondered who was stan and why does he love breadboard pictures!

stocky said:

To use those links like Stan has on his page i simply install "IC Socket Strips" cut to the right length.

They are available from electronics suppliers in strips of 20 or 32 pins - just snap them to length like header pins - EXTREMELY useful

I have populated EVERY board pad on the 28/40 starter kit board - sort of works like a combo starter kit AND breadboard now

Then Stans flexy leads plug straight in - I got my leads from SURE of eBay (bought a heap of breadboards and they chuck the leads in)

Stocky

Click to expand...

Stocky, do you mean these? http://cgi.ebay.com/single-row-square-50x-male-and-25x-female-pin-headers_W0QQitemZ350064670918QQihZ022QQcategoryZ109438QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262

No - the strips I mean are like single strips of machine pin IC socket pins

It has a male pin you solder into the board and the top is female.



Available from Jaycar and possibly many others

I buy 40x1 row and 40x2 row header sockets from Altronics.
Jaycar and DSE seem to stock the matching headers but not the sockets.

have a look at
http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?search=Header+Socket&area=srch&option=and&Submit=SEARCH

I have 2 of the AXE22 protoboards and like Stocky, I have soldered the female sockets into most (all on one) of the pads and use the matching headers to which I can solder wires.

Yup they would work as well - although they *might* be a little harder to break up to shorter lengths??

Good suggestion as another alternative Westie

Yes Stocky,
The header sections can easily be broken/cut to required length.

However do need to use a hacksaw or similar to cut the socket parts to required length with the loss/waste of one section.

OK - the pins i use just snap apart and you don't lose any

Still a really good option as well - yours a bit cheaper too I think

Stocky and Westaust, those are pretty clever ways to prototype! I'm going to stock up on the parts!

I was browsing jameco for the part mentioned by Stocky and came across this sip socket, but with extra long leads. I can't for the world figure out where this might be useful. In a protoboard, the leads are going to stick out, in a breadboard, they might fit in perfectly, but then why would I need these in a breadboard in the first place!

Is anyone familiar with this and where this might be useful? Thanks a bunch!

They look like the wire-wrap style SIL sockets. If so, they are useful for home-made double sided boards as they are convenient for soldering top and bottom side.
Otherwise, on s/sided boards just shove them through and chop off the excess.
I assume also they'll stuff nicely into breadboard.
How about using your imagination?
An electric flea-comb for the dog?

Sputz,

In the olden days circuits were made by wire wrapping rather than soldering. That looks like a 3 level wire wrap pin.

Wire wrap pins and sockets are still very handy. the fine wire is also useful for makig soldered connections.

Myc

Thanks guys for the ever helpful attitude! I never ever thought there would be so many ways to connect wires!