Display Bezel AXE134Y (and other models)

darb1972

Senior Member
Hi All

Planning out a project at the moment. The display will be a AXE134Y. RevEd don't seem to stock/list bezels for their displays. I mainly use their displays for rapid development. I had a professional (trophy maker) use a laser cutter to cut out a plastic enclosure once. It was a good finish, but because he doesn't do this on a regular basis, the vibe was here it is and don't come back again!

This time I want to put a display onto a metal panel. A bezel adds a really nice finish to a project. I want to mount a display onto a rack mount panel (3RU) that carries fans on either side. The idea is to display the temperature of a couple of strategically placed DS18B20 sensors in the rack. Before someone posts back as says it's been done before and you can purchase something similar to this, I am aware of this, but where's the fun (and learning) in that process???

When I cut out the (metal) panel it won't look spot on (as I will use a jig saw), so a bezel will give it a professional finish.

I had a look on the web and I know Element14 carry a few bezels, but I didn't know if any of the members have come across a better supplier/alternative for bezels to suit the RevEd displays? I have a few different models in stock, but for now I would like to get a bezel to suit the AXE134Y (4 x 20) LCD.

Any tips/advice would be most welcome.

Thanks.
 

darb1972

Senior Member
After MUCH research, unless I live in the US, I will have to pay about $100-00 USD freight to Matrix Orbital (who seem to carry some awesome gear by the way) https://www.matrixorbital.com/accessories/mounting/bez-204a-v1-w-oem, my best bet seems to be the use of the display covers listed below. The freight is reasonable when compared to the above alternative.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/seetrondisplays/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

I'm still interested to see if anyone else has a better idea.

Thanks.
 
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oracacle

Senior Member
If your in no hurry, I can come up with something and 3D print it. You of you do some sketches of what you want and sends/post them here. It won't be free, and printer won't be available until Monday at the earliest (I'm in the middle of a large print ATM)
 

darb1972

Senior Member
Hello Oracacle

Thanks for the offer but I am in a bit of a hurry on this one. I appreciate the suggestion and offer. I certainly wouldn't have expected it for free as these things take up much of our time and also consumes materials. Thanks again, but I might have to go with Seetrondisplay solution.

Maybe you could go into production for these products as there seems to be a demand (from what I read on the Web) and a lack of supply.
 

oracacle

Senior Member
I am actually just playing with the idea of offering 3D printing services in my area.

I think I will go ahead and design something. I have a AXE134Y here, and ideas on features you would like?
 

darb1972

Senior Member
Hello Oracacle

I think if you looked at the products from Matrix Orbital it might give you some good ideas. I think it might be helpful if the "window" closely follows the display area of an AXE134Y so the body of the bezel can cover/hide the cutout of a panel/enclosure. From my research today, it appears that the AXE134Y follows what is essentially a "standard" in terms of PCB size and mounting hole dimensions. Most of the bezels I researched seemed to offer mounting holes to match that of the display. So, you can drill holes in your plate/enclosure and put screws through the display PCB, through the plate/enclosure, and then finally into the thread embedded in the front bezel. Obviously you need the correct depth of screw and spacers for the display behind the panel/enclosure.

I think you might be on a winner if you can offer a few standard bezels (for, say, LCDs 16 x 2 and 20 x 4) maybe in black and beige to suit enclosures and panels. I guess you could put together a "kit" with all of the necessary parts (bezel, screws and spacers). Maybe you could offer these to RevEd too???
 

oracacle

Senior Member
That's a good idea that they have there. I cant put in the metal inserts into the screw holes, but the plastic I use can easily be "forced" to accept a screw thread.

My first design is essentially a flat plate that the screws go through from the front, through the panel and OLED then just add nuts to the back. The design isn't quite there yet. I will post pics when its done.
Just going for simple ATM, but the options are quite wide, flat plat with counter sunk screws, or non counter sunk or with a recess on the back to allow for mounting on material as thin as 1mm.
 

darb1972

Senior Member
Yeh, that's looks really good. A nice simple and smart design. Some black countersunk 2.5mm fine thread screws going through the panel and into the display. I believe the standard hole size is 2.5mm.

Good work. I think keeping it simple in the beginning is the best way to go. Is it too early to ask what you might sell these for???
 

oracacle

Senior Member
about £2 pus delivery, that ay include screws depending on if I can source them cheaply enough
Currently can do black, white, blue, yellow, and bright green
 

oracacle

Senior Member
This on to be attached from the inside, not 100% one the design yet its going to need some proto typing.

cost wise about £2.20 plus postage and maybe a little for screws
 

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The bear

Senior Member
@ oracacle,

Nice work!

Can you reduce the size of the bezel, the frame itself, not the opening. This would enable it to fit small enclosures, and save on materials too.
Bear..
 

oracacle

Senior Member
here's the first print of the basic one.


the basic version is only about 4mm long and 4mm taller than the actual PCB of the OLED. if you need it smaller, you need a smaller display.
The actual cost of the material is low, talking less than 20pence, its the cost of running the machine that's expensive.
Then there are variations on how thing are printed. if printed face down so no support material is used (like in the picture) then it cost less. But due to there being a cavity on the screen side printing up the other way forces the use of support material as well as time, but looks prettier. The if you put ironing on the final layer so you get a really smooth matt outcome it add about £1 dues just to machine time.

I will get a drawing done, and posted with measurements etc, hopefully there wont be much in the way of changes to be made.

Edit: If anyone know the winstar OLED that the AXE133Y is based on, I can get specs and do a design for that too.
 

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oracacle

Senior Member
darb1972 I can have these in Australia in about a week for less than £10, well according to the royal mail website. (PM me, if you send me your address https://auspost.com.au/sending/check-sending-guidelines/addressing-guidelines and I will send them first thing)
If you have access to the screw that are needed. Bare in mind, they aren't perfect as they are essentially prototypes.
I have had to set the printer back onto the previous project (needs to be done for by then) so cant do any more test printed until tomorrow after noon.
 

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oracacle

Senior Member
I was little surprised at the cost. I can print them for a couple of quid + postage.
I know the Rev Ed version is metal and all but does seem a little on the expensive side.
 

stevesmythe

Senior Member
I was little surprised at the cost. I can print them for a couple of quid + postage.
I know the Rev Ed version is metal and all but does seem a little on the expensive side.
It's not just RevEd. Pretty much all the ones I have seen for sale have been around that price. Business opportunity for you!
 

darb1972

Senior Member
Hello Oracacle

Thanks for the work and effort with this. I am interested in your product, but is there any chance of getting a better/smoother finish to the front of the bezel? I would be happy to pay the extra for the ironing treatment to get the smooth finish. Any chance you can post a picture of a bezel with the smooth finish?

Thanks again.
 

oracacle

Senior Member
I set in printing 2 hour 34 minutes before posting. I thought there is bound to be a question about how it will look, so thought printing one do people can see would be prudent.
 

oracacle

Senior Member
Top left is not ironed yet, bottom left is.

Edit: the second photo is fully ironed and off the print bed, and support material removed.
I have also moved to a parametric design to make it easier to make changes to the design.


I am about to make a start on a 16x2 bezel now.
 

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darb1972

Senior Member
Hello Oracacle

Thanks for your efforts. Sorry for long delay in responding. Been on a big job this week.

The 20x4 bezel looks good, but without wanting to sound super fussy, can one take the finished product and lightly sand/polish it (somehow) for an even smoother finish? Is that even possible? I don't know much about 3D printing or the materials used, nor do I know much about plastics. I am just thinking that if the bezel is put against a project box (and most of these are a somewhat shiny/glossy finish) what would it take to get your bezel to that level? Is it possible following a 3D production???
 

oracacle

Senior Member
It is possible, it would have to be done wet. It could also be painted with a gloss paint. For me to do that would add cost and time. I am working until Sunday morning now so won't get much time to a work on it until then.

If you want to do your own research the plastic is PLA or polylactic acid.
 

geoff07

Senior Member
I'm sure I bought some stainless bezels from Rev-Ed a while back. Try BZL010/BZL020. They weren't cheap (£7.49) but solved a problem.
 

oracacle

Senior Member
one of my aims is for the 3D printed version to be cheaper, and as it stands it is. without additional finishing they are about £2+ shipping.
If just painting is good enough then they wont be much more expensive than that.
There is the addition of making the layer smaller. The normal layer height is 0.2mm, This can show some "stepping" on vertically slopped/rounded side/edges. Decreasing layer height reduces this, but drives up cost. The same thing becomes nearly £4+ shipping@0.08mm before additional finishing. This isn't due to extra material but to the amount of time the printer is running.
I set 3 more printing so that I can do a bit of experimenting. Currently trying some Revell Matt black, its still drying but looks quite neat even without any sanding.
 

oracacle

Senior Member
I have done a little research. one quite laborious

https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-smooth-pla-to-a-mirror-finish

the other less so
https://www.amazon.co.uk/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1532251305&sr=8-1&keywords=+XTC3D

I only have some 1200 grit wet and dry which I will experiment with. The upside of the sanding route is it can be as shiny or as dull as you like. The downside is the amount of labour that is involved, and therefore cost.
The XTC stuff will help to keep cost down as there will be less labour, but maybe less control of the shine...
 

oracacle

Senior Member
I tried a quick rub over with some wet and dry followed by a couple of coats of automotive paint.
Would the wind got up while it was trying, which wasn't helpful
 

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