MP3 Clone?

LouMar

Member
Does anyone know if a WTV020-SD-16P U-Disk Audio Player will work with a Picaxe 14M by acting as a MP3 clone? I have asked the product supplier but he does not know. Also, how do I connect it to the Picaxe? Attached is a link to the description of the item.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WTV020-SD-16P-U-Disk-Audio-Player-SD-Card-Voice-Module-MP3-Voice-Module-/321315084624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4acfdf1950

As an alternative, does anyone know of a small inexpensive MP3 that I can use? I only have 4 voice message files to store that are only 3-6 words per file.

Thank you.
 

hippy

Technical Support
Staff member

LouMar

Member
Thank you for your response. The item you sell appears to be too big and far more than is necessary for my simple project. It is also too expensive; the item in question is about $4. I need a small unit that can fit into a black box with my breadboard. I am not computer knowledgeable so I/m not sur if I will be able to figure out the datasheet you sent.
 

inglewoodpete

Senior Member
I am not computer knowledgeable so I/m not sur if I will be able to figure out the datasheet you sent.
Without figuring out the data sheet and also getting a working knowledge of the electronics and the PICAXE, you're going to really struggle. Perhaps you are starting with a project that is too difficult for a beginner. As much as forum members would like to help, it is your project and they can't make it for you.
 

LouMar

Member
Thank you very much. I am not very very electronics literate but with trial and error, I believe I will eventually be able to figure out the WTV020 and SOMO data sheets.
 

LouMar

Member
Except for a voice module and SD card, I have properly installed all my components on a breadboard.
I programmed what I want to do using flowcharts and I am pretty confident the program will work. It passes syntax.
This afternoon I received my voice module and SD card.

Although not very economical, the flowchart makes programing MP3 very easy and I thought this programing would apply to the voice module (WTV020-SD-16P U-Disk Audio Player) I just received. Well it looks like that is not the case and I am not capable of doing the programing necessary to make the voice module work. All that will be playing are 8 separate WAV voice files I recorded. The files are only 1-8 words each.

Does anyone know where I can get a small and inexpensive MP3 player that will respond to the MP3 flowchart programming contained? Also, how do i connect it to my M14 Picaxe? Hippy suggested the VMUSIC2 MP3 but it seems too big and expensive. Also, after reading the description, I'm not sure it will work with the flowchart commands. If it will work with the flowchart commands and there is nothing else, I will get one.
 

Bill.b

Senior Member
I am running a WTV020-SD-16P with a 2 GB SD card with buttons to select tracks.
I have not connected it to my picaxe yet, I and going to configure it to play voices for my robot soon.

Bill
 

LouMar

Member
Glad to hear that it works with a 2 GB uSD card. What manufacturer and where did you get it? It is hard to find a card less than 2 GB that is on the list of cards that will work. I located a Transcend 2 GB but I have not purchased it yet. I haven't hooked up my WTV020-SD-18P yet so I'm eager to know if the 2 GB card works when connected to your Picaxe. Please let me know.

Also, since I am a beginner using a M14 Picaxe, I could use some help. Could you tell me which pin is CLK and which pin is D1 on the Picaxe? I don't think I need a Busy pin since I only have 8 messages that are only 1-8 words each but I assume any input pin on the Picaxe will work for Busy. Is that correct?

Last question: I programed using flowcharts which have functions to allow playing MP3 files. Will these functions work with WTV20-SD-16P? If not, do you know where I can find code that I can place in a Basic box within my flowchart? I need to select a file, adjust volume, play (sometimes I need to replay instead of play), and stop.

I will be eternally grateful for your help. Thank you.

Lou
 

hippy

Technical Support
Staff member
I programed using flowcharts which have functions to allow playing MP3 files. Will these functions work with WTV20-SD-16P?
The "Play MP3" cell command is only intended only for controlling a USB030 VMUSIC2 player.
 

LouMar

Member
Hippy:

Thank you for that information as well as for your past posts. Although the VMUSIC2 is overkill for 8 simple voice messages and too big to fit in a black box with my breadboard, I may have to use it as a last resort. For now, I really would like to use the small WTV20-SD-16P which fits nicely on my breadboard.

This morning I was able to locate and order a uSD card that is on the list of cards to use. When I started, I was way over my head but if you, Bill.b or anyone else could answer the rest of my questions, I believe I will be able to finish my project.

1) Which pin is CLK and which pin is D1 on the Picaxe? I won't worry about a Busy pin pin since I only have 8 messages that are only 1-8 words each.

2) Do you know where I can find code that I can place in a Basic box within my flowchart? I need to select a file, adjust volume, play (sometimes I need to replay instead of play), and stop.

Thank you.
 

hippy

Technical Support
Staff member
1) Which pin is CLK and which pin is D1 on the Picaxe?
That D1 is probably DI, "Data Input" into the module. You can drive it from any output pin from the PICAXE, same too for CLK and RST.

2) Do you know where I can find code that I can place in a Basic box within my flowchart? I need to select a file, adjust volume, play (sometimes I need to replay instead of play), and stop.
It would, in my opinion, be much better and possibly easier to use the Basic Programming Language rather than flowcharts. The following, untested, should work if wired up correctly, two seconds after being turned on, should set volume to full then play track 0001.ad4 for two seconds, pause it for two seconds, play two seconds more then stop the track. After five seconds, repeat -

Code:
#Picaxe 14M2

Symbol RST = B.1
Symbol CLK = B.2
Symbol DAT = B.3

PowerOnReset:
  High RST
  High CLK
  High DAT
  Pause 2000

Main:
  Do
    w0 = 7    : Gosub SetVolume ; w0 = 0 to 7
    w0 = 0001 : Gosub SetTrack  ; w0 = 0000 to 0511
    Gosub PlayTrack
    Pause 2000
    Gosub PauseTrack
    Pause 2000
    Gosub UnPauseTrack
    Pause 2000
    Gosub StopTrack
    Pause 5000
  Loop

SetVolume:
  w0 = w0 | $FFF0
  Goto TransmitW0

SetTrack:
  w0 = w0 & $01FF
  Goto TransmitW0

PlayTrack:
PauseTrack:
UnPauseTrack:
  w0 = $FFFE
  Goto TransmitW0

StopTrack:
  w0 = $FFFF
  Goto TransmitW0

TransmitW0:
  Low RST
  Pause 5
  High RST
  Pause 300
  For b2 = 0 To 15
    If w0 >= $8000 Then
      High DAT
    Else
      Low  DAT
    End If
    Pause 2
    Low CLK
    PauseUs 20
    High CLK
    w0 = w0 * 2
  Next
  High DAT
  Return
 

LouMar

Member
Bill.b: thank you.

Need additional help:
I have a AXE117 Picaxe-14M Project Board Kit that I soldered together per directions but now I'm not sure I did it correctly.
Concerning the +V and a 0V next to each of the inputs and outputs on the Project Board.
Do I solder a wire that connects each input and output from the Project Board to the breadboard to the +V or 0V?
I soldered wires to connect into my breadboard into the V+ holes. Now I think that was wrong and I should have
soldered into the 0V holes. Which is it?

Also, I soldered all the resistors on the input side as stated in the directions. However, now I need 2 more output pins
to connect to my voice module. Do I remove the resistors from the pins I need to be output?

Thanks for your help.
 

premelec

Senior Member
There are 2 places to hook up V+ voltages - the one that goes to the PICAXE chip is +5 volts and the one that goes to the darlington driver chip is whatever you want to switch with that driver - e.g. could be +12Volts. On the 10K input resistors you can either remove them for outputs or not worry about the small current they draw when high.... The board was design for the 14M chip which was not so versatile as the 14M2 with regard to input / output and PWMOUT and such - I'm hoping you DO have an 14M2 chip not a 14M!
 

LouMar

Member
Thank you for the reply. I have the 14M2 chip.

I am still confused about where to solder in the connection for the wires that go to my breadboard from the Picaxe board that holds the 14M2 chip and the darlington chip. My question is about the individual 4.5V and 0V holes next to each input and output pin. Do I solder into the 4.5V or 0V holes?

As far as supplying 5V to the Picaxe board, I soldered in the battery wires into the 4.5V and 0V holes at the upper left corner of the Picaxe board.
 

premelec

Senior Member
I don't have my board handy but looking at the schematic I see that there is a V+ high voltage line next to the darlington 'outputs' [these are not actual outputs but basically switches to V-]. This would mean e.g. if you had a lamp to turn on/off you'd connect it from V+ to darlington pin. The 0V is V-. I'm not clear what what you are trying to connect. Are you clear on the functions of the board looking at the schematic for AXE117? Do you understand that the darlington connections simply switch some item which has one end connected to V+ to V- when it's turned on?
 

LouMar

Member
I guess I am not explaining my problem correctly so I made a diagram. Please excuse the diagram art work. In order to make the file secure, I saved it as a "youtube.com" one picture video. The video only lasts 2 seconds so as soon as it starts, press pause. If you don't press pause fast enough, just replay the video.

Notice the wires that are next to the inputs and outputs. What I need to know is do I solder the wires to the 4.5V or 0V holes on the Picaxe board. Here is the link:
 
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StigOfTheDump

Senior Member
I don't have this project board so I am only looking at the way it appears in the datasheet. If you have a multimeter you should be able to compare the diagram in the datasheet and your board to get a better understanding of what goes where. When you talk about the 0v holes I think you are misunderstanding them. On the diagram it appears that the outside rows of holes are positives but the inside rows are the inputs to the picaxe and the outputs from the darlington. EDIT but zooming in on the photo, the outputs might be the other way round. Manual3 page 7 http://www.picaxe.com/docs/picaxe_manual3.pdf explains how to use the darlington chip. Maybe it would be a good idea to experiment with the board first with some LEDs and resistors or perhaps a small motor, to get a better understanding before you build it into your main project.


Looking at the datasheet page 2 http://www.picaxe.com /docs/axe117.pdf and your youtube drawing it appears that your 11 wires to the breadboard are all connected together (all battery + from the picaxe board).

The darlington chip supplies the negative to an device that already has a positive. Normally with this board you would connect these 6 devices between the two holes next to each row of the darlington. If you make the input high, the output goes low, but not the other way round. If you make the input low the output is high impedance (a bit like not connected).

Outputs
To move this over to your breadboard you would take the 6 wires from the column under the 0v to the breadboard. These would connect to the 6 devices on your breadboard that already have a positive from the supply on your breadboard. You will also need to connect the 0v line of the picaxe board to the 0v of the breadboard supply. This way these devices will get the voltage that is on your breadboard but will be controlled by the picaxe. Also the darlington positive should be connected to the breadboard supply instead of the picaxe supply. This may involve bending that pin up before you fit the 2003 in the socket and then soldering a wire to it. This board doesn't appear to be ideally suited to controlling items at a different voltage to the picaxe.

Inputs
Similarly you would need to take the 5 input lines from the 0v column to your breadboard. You may also need to take one positive wire to your breadboard. KEEP THIS SEPARATE. It does not connect to your positive on the breadboard, otherwise your breadboard would be trying to charge your batteries. Any switches on your breadboard would need to connect between this wire and one of the 5 other input wires. Any picaxe input that needs to connect to the output of any other device on your breadboard would need to be discussed individually to make sure it is at the correct voltage.

If your breadboard is already running between 3 and 5 volts you would not need the batteries on the picaxe, you could join the 2 supplies together instead. Don't do both.

If you don't want to use the darlington chip you would take your outputs from the row of holes down the middle of the board. These would be used for low current outputs between these holes and 0V.

Don't be in a rush to do anything, give others a chance to review my thoughts as it's late at night and I don't even have this board to test.
 
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LouMar

Member
Power Supply to 14M2 chip:
I intend to use battery pack to download program from computer to Picaxe without Picaxe connected to breadboard. After program loaded, I will disconnect battey pack and connect 5V and ground from breadboard to Picaxe.

Power Supply to darlington chip:
You said, “Also the darlington positive should be connected to the breadboard supply instead of the picaxe supply. This may involve bending that pin up before you fit the 2003 in the socket and then soldering a wire to it.” At the top right corner of the Project board next to the darlington chip, there is a 4.5V hole and a 0V hole. Do I solder wires to these holes and connect the wires to 5V and ground of my breadboard?

Wires at breadboard:
Wires are inserted into breadboard on the same row of breadboard but the wires are separate from each other. Wires at the breadboard are NOT connected to each other at breadboard.

Project inputs (inputs have 10K resistor soldered in as per directions):
Input C4: DATA line from temperature sensor – certain temperatures trigger various outputs
Input C2: from Relay #1 providing ground from relay common – this ground triggers an output
--power to coil for this relay from breadboard – ground to coil from manual switch

Outputs:
Output B0: when I figure out how to do it, this will output a signal to cause a cell phone to make a call
Output B1: voice module DATA line
Output B2: 5V to coil of Relay #2 (other side of coil connected to breadboard ground)
Output B3: 5V to coil of Relay #3 (other side of coil connected to breadboard ground)
Output B4: unable to use 5V hole due to damage but 0V hole is usable
Output B5: 3.3 volts to voice module (per directions a 10k resistor and a 22k resistor soldered in)
--voice module ground to breadboard ground
Output C1: voice module CLK
Output C0: voice module RST

You said darlington supplies negative. Can it supply positive so that wires for B2, B3, and B5 are soldered to 4.5V hole on Picaxe Project board? I already have breadboard and components B2, B3, and B5 to be positive. For C4, C2, B0, B1, C1, and C0 to which hole (4.5V or 0V) should each wire be soldered.
 

StigOfTheDump

Senior Member
It will be best to wait until somebody who has the board can reply about which holes are which.

The photo on the Picaxestore website doesn't identify which hole is the input and which is the positive. On the output side of the board you keep mentioning the 4.5v holes and the 0v holes. On the photo I can see,there is only one of each and all the others are marked + and -. These also appear to be the opposite way round than the 0v and 4.5v holes above them. Without seeing the board I couldn't be sure about which are the outputs or even about which ones you have soldered the wires to. Also Premelec seems to think there is a place to connect the breadboard supply to the darlington + but I can't see it on the schematic. If all will be running on the same power supply then it shouldn't need moving.

The text on the datasheet regarding the 3.3v output says that some early boards were marked incorrectly. The correct placement according to the text appears to disagree with the photo of a built up example on the website.

Output O5 (not B.5) This is an output pin capable of supplying maximum 20mA as a signal or a low power device such as an LED. I would not expect it to power your voice module. The best way would be to fit a 3.3v regulator to power it. Then you could use this O5 pin for your data line. It would be taken from the bottom of the board (O5) not with the other outputs.
Output B.2,B.3 The darlington can't be made to supply a positive, it will only supply a negative.The other side of the coils of relays #2 & #3 would need to go to breadboard positive.
Output B.1 This would need to be taken from the B.1 hole in the middle of the board. it will give 5v or 0v. Will your voice module accept 5v input when powered from 3.3v?

Input C.4 did you see the note in the datasheet about fitting a 4k7 resistor to a different hole instead of the 10k resistor?
Input C.2 as it is currently configured will already be 0v because of your 10k resistor to 0v. Sending 0v from the relay won't be noticed.

Before you solder / unsolder anything you should post a photo of your project board and a drawing of your complete circuit so people can check for errors. It doesn't matter if your drawing is the latest CAD or a photo of a pen and paper drawing, as long as it is clear.
Trial and error is an expensive way of doing electronics. Once the magic smoke gets out it's awful difficult to get it back in!
 

hippy

Technical Support
Staff member
One option would be to remove the PICAXE chip from the project board, plug it into the breadboard, add a download interface and wire the PICAXE direct to the audio module. That will reduce the unnecessary complexity, solve a lot of problems and confusion.
 

LouMar

Member
Thank you StigOfTheDump and hippy for your comments and replies. At this point I am so overwhelmed that I'm going to take a day or two to rethink this project. Thanks again for your help.
 

LouMar

Member
Okay, 14M2 Picaxe chip plugged directly into breadboard. Will the following work?

+V Pin1 5V from breadboard ---------- 0V Pin14 ground from breadboard
C.5 Pin2 --------------------------------- B.0 Pin13 to cell phone dialer after I figure out how to make it work
C.4 Pin3 data line from Temp Sensor - B.1 Pin12 to Relay #2
C.3 Pin4 +V from Relay #1 ------------ B.2 Pin11 to Relay #3
C.2 Pin5 --------------------------------- B.3 Pin10 to Voice Module Data Line
C.1 Pin6 --------------------------------- B.4 Pin9 to Voice Module CLK
C.0 Pin7 --------------------------------- B.5 Pin8 to Voice Module RST

Hippy used RST in code but I don't know where RST is in Voice Module
Per Temp Sensor manufacturer instructions, 1k resistor connected to breadboard ground and Temp Sensor data line into C.4
Per Picaxe instructions for Project Board, 10k resistor connected to breadboard ground and +V of Relay #1 into C.3

5V to 3.3V Regulator on breadboard to supply power to VM

HOW DO I WIRE UP B.0, B.1, and B.2? DOES PICAXE SEND +V OR 0V TO THEM?
What is a download interface? Where do I get it? How do I get my program into the 14M2?
 
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hippy

Technical Support
Staff member
Take a step back, remove the connections and hardware you have on the breadboard other than the PICAXE, add a LED and a resistor ( 330R to 1K8 ), and get that LED to flash on and off.
 

LouMar

Member
Ok, I connected the resistor and LED to B.4, connected 5V and ground to picaxe, and wrote the program; however, unless I remove the chip and reinstall it into the Picaxe Board, I don't know how to get the blinking LED program to the 14M2. That's ok because I realize that I wire up B.0, B.1, and B.2 to Picaxe and declare those pins as high then low as needed. I now understand that the Picaxe pins yield 5V when "high" or "1" and 0V when 'low" or "0".

In the flowchart program I already wrote, I used the outputs box and check "1" when I want the pin to yield 5V and "0" when I want the pin to yield 0V.

<< Will the output flowchart boxes work or do I have to change to the High and Low flowchart boxes? >>
<< Will my wiring as stated in my last post work? >>
<< How do I get my program into the 14M2? >>

I am pretty sure that I will have to change the program many times before the project works correctly; therefore, I would rather not keep removing and installing the 14M2 back and forth from breadboard to Picaxe board and back again. Can I unsolder the download socket from the Picaxe board and wire it to the Picaxe on the breadboard? If so, what pins do I connect to the socket? In lieu of doing this, does a download interface download to the Picaxe? If so, where do I get one?
 
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eclectic

Moderator
? What is a download interface? Where do I get it? How do I get my program into the 14M2? I would rather not keep removing and installing the 14M2 back and forth from breadboard to Picaxe board and back again.
Se Manual 1 (above), page 43 onwards.

Then page 7 onwards from Manual 1
e
 

LouMar

Member
Thank you. I will remove the download socket from the Picaxe project board and wire in into the 14M2 chip on my breadboard per the diagram on page 8 of the manual.
 

LouMar

Member
I just can't catch a break. I removed the download socket from the Picaxe project board and wired it into a breadboard per the diagram on page 8 of the manual. I then tried to download the "Blinking LED" program. I get the following error "Error: Hardware not found on COM5!" I checked and rechecked the connection but it is exactly as the diagram. I used one 10k and one 22k resistor as per the diagram. There is about a 5 second wait before I get the error. I tried to download with the cable unplugged to verify that something was actually working. Without cable connected, I get a different error message immediately after clicking download. To me, this indicates that the cable connection is valid because the software is trying to do something. I just tried clicking the download button with power off to the Picaxe and I get the same 5 second delay with the same COM5 error.

I checked my computer and COM5 is set up in my computer.
 

BeanieBots

Moderator
Have you double checked your power connections to the PICAXE?
It might be a good idea to post a picture of your layout so that others can check your connections.
The download socket has very short legs which do not make connection directly with breadboard, how have you made these connections?
 

LouMar

Member
I made a drawing of my connection as a "youtube" video because "youtube" is secure. Link is http://youtu.be/PgYXSe7UFdQ
Video only lasts 3 seconds so click pause to keep it on the screen. If you forget to click pause, just run it again.
The connections from the download socket are short but they are connected.
 

eclectic

Moderator
I made a drawing of my connection as a "youtube" video because "youtube" is secure. Link is http://youtu.be/PgYXSe7UFdQ
Video only lasts 3 seconds so click pause to keep it on the screen. If you forget to click pause, just run it again.
The connections from the download socket are short but they are connected.
I, for one (and I'm sure there are others),
cannot be bothered to go to an external site

and then chase an image using "pause".

Just post a .jpg as an attachment, like everyone else does. :- )

You'll probably get more viewers and more chance of help.

e
 

premelec

Senior Member
@LouMar - it's perhaps time to reboot the project and let us know some things:

Have you ever successfully programmed the 14M2?

I would suggest putting it back in the AXE117 board, connecting an LED in series with a 330ohm resistor as hippy suggested; make it blink.

Then add a potentiometer to an ADC pin [pot ends to V+ and V- 5v and center to picaxe pin] and read it and make that reading change the blink rate.

It doesn't seem you are getting success with either the hardware or software side of your proposed project - so start simply and build from there.

And YES post an actual photograph of what you have - what you draw and what you build are often quite different from each other and often difficult to discern the differences...
 

LouMar

Member
I appreciate everyone's help. I did not know nor do I know how to attach a jpg. I have never programed a Picaxe before. I know very little about electronics. I am a beginner with an idea. I originally purchased an Arduino but discovered that it would be impossible for me to lean "C" in order to program it. I purchased a Picaxe because the advertisements said that they are easy to use and that it is not necessary to know how to program. Well, maybe it's just me but I have not found it easy to use or that it was not necessary to know how to program although flowchart programing does make it easier.

My project includes about 14 components which I have successfully installed and wired onto a breadboard. Except for code necessary for my voice module, I believe that the flowchart program I wrote will work. My major problem is how to use the Picaxe.

Retailers that sell the Picaxe products know nothing about what they are selling. According to SparkFun (a major United States electronics supplier), this forum is the only place to get any help. I even sent an email asking for help directly from Picaxe and they referred me to the forum for help. I live in Texas half was between Dallas and Houston. What I need is an hour or two of face to face time with a Picaxe expert that lives nearby. I am more than willing to drive to their location and to compensate the person for their time. Is their anyone that lives in Texas that can help me?
 
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