First Order...

Hi,

I am going to place my first order tomorrow for the following:

AXE091U
PUB127 (Programming & Customizing the PICAXE Microcontroller)

As I am not familiar with the entire range of products I thought I should ask if there is anything else that is worth ordering at the same time?

I do not know if I need any more PICAXE chips or connectors or bit and pieces?

Would hate to miss out on something obvious and end up paying postage on a small value item! D'oh!!

Many thanks

Well, that would depend on what you want to do.
I'd certainly consider getting a few PICAXEs as well.
At a least a couple of 08M's and maybe a few 28X2's

I'd be tempted to leave out the PUB127 (it's all covered in the manuals) and spend the money on chips instead or maybe treat yourself to an AXE033. I build one into just about every project but that depnds on what sort of projects you are interested in.

How will you power your projects?

BeanieBots:

Thank you!

I want to start right at the beginning learning all about programming PICAXES and then move on to building projects. I have so many ideas about things that I would love to build. But at this stage I do not have the knowledge or skills required. Previously I got way ahead of myself and that ended in me nearly giving up the notion of one day being able to make small projects.

I will leave out PUB127 as you recommend and allocate dosh towards components.

Are the 'M2' series PICAXES going to replace all of the 'M' series chips?

What are the 28X2's for?

There are so many PICAXES and I am a bit overwhelmed at working out what I need and what each one is for.

Regarding power. I would like to use a 3 pin mains adapter. PWR009?


Thanks,

"What are the 28X2's for?" Ha, Ha, as with any PICAXE, they are for YOUR projects and for YOU to program with YOUR code.

Why such a vast PICAXE range?
Well, they all have their pro's and con's but primarily, the main differences are the amount of program space and number of pins.

If you simply want to do something like a traffic light simulation maybe for a model railway, then the little 08M is well up for the job.

If you want background serial receive from a GPS with interrupt driven menu screens and log the journey to I2C EEPROM then you should be looking at using a 28X2.

If you want to do an animatronic project with around servos driving your robot that also has analogue or ultrasonic "eyes", then the 28X1 would be a good choice. If you need more outputs, then 40X1 or 40X2.

The "M" series are more middle ground. The 18M2 is a SPECIAL because it also supports multitasking. It is the ONLY PICAXE with that feature. Maybe there will at some time in the future be versions that will replace the 08M, 14M and 20M but not right now.

Suggest you have good read of all the different features of each range and then decide for yourself.

I have no idea where you're interest are but make sure you have something to drive with your PICAXE that will keep you interested in. Flashing LEDs can hold interest for a limited period of time. Maybe you should consider a servo or two. Maybe a motor and motor driver chip. (or high power project board).

Then again, don't go too mad at the start, especially if not something you have a great deal of experience with. Get those LEDs flashing with a simple 08M first!

Got it. The scenarios helped me put things in perspective.

The ultimate achievement for me, at this stage, would be to make a digital wireless thermometer that is stand alone to the development board.

Want to start simple (flashing LEDs) and then be able to build projects that involve wireless communications, data logging, input based projects and interfacing with a PC.

Thanks for the summary of the range of PICAXE chips!

Got a lot of reading to do - may have to hold off from placing the order tomorrow!

UmBongo: With a name like this you must be into music?!

All manner of mains & USB power supply related woes can arise to confuse newbies ! As the 08M is quite happy on any supply between ~3V-5½ Volts, I STRONGLY hence recommend initial PICAXE projects being powered by just 3 x AA cells in a switched battery box. The resulting ~4½V ( & closer to 5V when fresh ) runs almost anything, & your batteries will last for ages. You can even use 2 x AA (thus ~3V), but of course white LEDS will then only run dimly & your batteries will fall below a useful supply voltage much sooner.

The pix below shows the minimal breadboard approach we use here in NZ with many senior students. Younger users (pre & early teens- the kids in the pix below are only 7-9 yo.!)), typically can NOT strip wires or insert components correctly, so I usually go for the "Snap" approach with them.

However I recently showed this approach to a bunch of "just signed on" newbie Army signallers, most of whom are Cisco style IT types with little prior knowledge of electronics hardware. They were here on a "getting started" Polytech. level hands on electronics hardware block course,and (after wrestling with Vero board for hours) greated the "snap" micro demo with great enthusiasm. Who wouldn't! Stan.

Extra: Perhaps check this barebones DS18B20/08M/433 MHz digital wireless thermometer (& repeater!).

I looks like that starter pack does not include a programmimg cable.
If not you will need to get one also.

The AXE091 does NOT include the AXE027 download cable.
The AXE091U DOES include it.

flyingnunrt:

Thanks for that. I have re-looked at the page and it states that the programming lead is included.

Manuka

I was thinking the same thing about power supplies because I thought that different PICAXES have different operating voltages and maybe the board would step the voltage down from 9v to 5v or 3v or 1.8v.

The wireless thermometer looks great. I can see that an 08M has been used!

Still compiling my list and hopefully get my order in tomorrow. Just don't want to miss anything out!

AXE091U
Selection of chips (still deciding!)
Power supply/Battery box
LCD screen.

flyingnunrt said:

I looks like that starter pack does not include a programmimg cable.
If not you will need to get one also.

Click to expand...

Actually it includes a USB programming cable. If you scroll down the product page a bit you'll see that the kit includes the dev board and the cable.

@ UmBongo. I would also get a 20x2 Picaxe chip because they support lots of the features the 28x2 does and for a slightly lower price. You can also power the down to 1.8v so they're perfect for lower power applications.

NXTreme

Thanks, will get a 20X2 and a DS18B20 Temperature Sensor. My first project will be to (try) getting it to display the results on a LCD, then get the data from the board to the PC!

The AXE091 has a DS18B20 fitted but by all means get an extra one.
Suggest you get the AXE033 serial LCD as apposed to any old LCD display.
The AXE033 is serial and hence only requires 1 OP connection. Also, it's well supported here if you have any problems.

The AXE091 does not come with any jump wires. If you don't have anything suitable it would be worth getting a kit. Not sure if Rev-Ed do anyhting.

You'll also need some resistors for playing with extra components.
Suggest either a resistor starter pack or at least 10-off of 1k, 4k7, 10k and 330R.

This is turning into quite an order! It may again be worthwhile to recall our "start simply" alerts.

Even if needing a PC (for which just an old W98 "free to a good home" serial port fitted clunker will do), you can get PICAXEing for peanuts by using a solderless breadboard. I've ~a dozen Y2K era shot battery Toshiba Satellites (for which I paid ~£5 each) that work a treat as PICAXE editors. Perhaps make a simple D9- 3 header pin serial cable as well (see below).

LCDs are great for finished projects of course, but the SERTXD command allows data to be readily shown on the editing PC.

N.B. Start simply ! Stan.

Manuka. I can't PM you. Your inbox is full.