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nick12ab

LCD/LED/OLED assorted displays 'lucky bags' at Maplin 1 (N01CG) Kemo Electronic S043

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This is the first in a series of blog entries which cover the displays included in the Kemo Electronic S043 lucky bag sold at Maplin and describes the use of them. The series went under massive reorganisation in 2016 with the addition of new displays plus a new overview picture.
Scroll down for the display index.

This lucky bag typically costs £4.99 and contains 10 assorted displays. Each bag comes with a variety of different displays with balanced distribution, and generally a bag 2-3 large displays, 2-3 medium displays and 4-6 small displays, so you won't find one bag containing entirely HD44780-compatible LCDs and another containing 7-segment displays only. I wouldn't recommend just buying them on the website as you don't get to see what's in the bag unlike in store. The displays aren't individually packaged and they have the potential to damage each other in the packaging so you'll want to check for that before you buy.



Index


Click to view full size image.
Image is oversaturated to highlight the different colours of the LCDs.

Displays are numbered below in row-column format e.g. 4-1 is the tiny 7-segment display in the bottom left corner.
Blog entries in Blog Entry column:
1 - this one
2 - Click Here
3 - Click Here
Users should test all LED displays before building a stripboard/PCB circuit for them.


Number Name Description
CA = Common Anode, CC = Common Cathode
Size (mm)
d = diagonal
Illumination Colour Status - PICAXE Blog entry
1-1 AMPY2001-11 HD44780-compatible LCD: 16x1 + symbols 67 d Reflective - Yellow-Green Working 3
1-2 LXC1615ETR HD44780-compatible LCD: 16x1 66 d Reflective - Grey Working 3
1-3 08580002-N08YBN00 HD44780-compatible LCD: 16x2 64 d Reflective - Green Working 3
1-4 UMSH-7519AN-5F Graphic LCD: unknown resolution 50 d Reflective - Grey No - Unattempted 2
2-1 TM12880CCCWUGNA-B-2B Graphic LCD: 128x80 60 d Transflective - Grey No - Controller unknown 2
2-2 HNM-05SS62T Bare glass VFD: 4 digit 7-segment 10 Bluey green Working 2
2-3 PH128160T-066-L03Q TFT LCD: 128x160 45 d No - Mine came smashed
2-4 DGL-0401YG-4EH Bare glass LCD: 3 digit 7-segment, 18 pins 52 d Transflective - Grey
Yellow-green backlight
Working - not with PICAXE 2
2-5 OS096016PP08MB2B10 OLED: 96x16 25 d Blue Working 1
2-6 Bare glass LCD: 17 digits, 60 elastomeric contacts 50 d Reflective - Grey No - Unattempted 2
3-1 Bare glass LCD: 4 digit 7-segment, 15 pins 50 d Reflective - Grey Working - not with PICAXE 3
3-2 Bare glass LCD: 6 digit, 7-segment, 26 elastomeric contacts 29 d Reflective - Brown-Grey No - Unattempted
3-3 Bare glass LCD: 4 digit, 7-segment, 19 elastomeric contacts 38 d Reflective - Grey No - Unattempted
3-4 Bare glass LCD: 5 digit 7-segment, 26 elastomeric contacts 15 d Reflective - Grey No - Unattempted 2
3-5 LTL-2685HR LED block display: 8 dice 20x10 Super Red Working
3-6 SB1717-12 LED segment display: 6 green + 2 red dice, CA 15 Green+Bright Red Working 2
3-7 SS335SUR 7-seg LED: Surface Mount, CC 7 Super Red Working
3-8 KCSA39-105 7-seg LED: Surface Mount, CA 10 Super Red Working
3-9 KCDC04-105 7-seg LED: 2 digit, Surface Mount, CC 10 SuperRed Working
3-10 SS512UYWA 7-seg LED: Surface Mount, CA 14 Yellow Working
4-1 TDSR07601 7-seg LED: staggered pins, CA 7 Super Red Working
4-2 LTS-3361JD 7-segLED: CA 8 Super Red Working
4-3 HDSP-C3L1 7-seg LED: CA 9 Orange Working
4-4 HDSP-C3L3 7-seg LED: CC 9 Orange Working
4-5 TDCR1050M 7-seg LED: 4 digit, requires multiplexing, CA 10 Super Red Working
4-6 TDSL5050G 7-seg LED: CA 13 Bright red Working
4-7 7-seg LED: CA 13 "High efficiency" red Working
4-8 HDSP-H101 7-seg LED: CA 14.2 Bright Red Working
4-9 LC6321-21 7-seg LED: All segments have 2 LEDs in series, left DP, CC 16 Green Working
4-10 HDSP-C8E1 7-seg LED: All segments have one LED, CA 20 Bright Red Working
4-10 HDSP-C8L1 7-seg LED: All segments have one LED, CA 20 Orange Working
4-11 HDSP-4201 7-seg LED: All segmentshave one LED, CA 20 Yellow Working
4-12 HDSP-C1G3 7-seg LED: All segments have two LEDs except DP, CC 25 Green Working

2-5 OLED Display

Marking: OS96016PP08MB2B10



The OLED uses an SSD0303 and gives you many interface options including parallel, SPI and i2c. The pinout of the OLED can be found on page 44 of that datasheet as well as the leaflet included with the pack of assorted displays. The OLED is also easily dimmable through software commands, unlike some OLEDs which require modification.

The OLED is blue - the shade of blue it uses looks nice in real life and is a deeper shade than in the photo above - the screen burn-in example below is closer to the real colour. The right way up is with the tab at the top which allows you to fold the tab behind the OLED and have the breakout board with the pins at the bottom.

Use of an adapter board like the one shown in the photo (search for 'tft to dip' on eBay) is essential if you want to use the display on breadboard or stripboard - you can't just solder jumper wires to the connections and bend them to fit in a breadboard since the connections are fragile and you will break them if you do this.

Note: These OLED Displays are very vulnerable to screen burn (particularly on the brighter settings), unlike the Winstar OLEDs sold by Rev-Ed. Running the clock demo for more than a few minutes on the bright setting or a few weeks on the dimmest setting will cause visible screen burn-in.

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Updated 24-03-2016 at 17:47 by nick12ab (Updated DGL-0401YG-4EH and glucose meter display)

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Comments

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    Found out how to add an external contrast control - remove R13 from the board, then run a wire from the conveniently marked VLCD pad to pin 18 on the connector which is normally unused.
    Nick, your PM message box is full.

    Cheers,

    Buzby
    How did you progress with the code for the LCD display?

    But, the components are still very good value for money.
    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    How did you progress with the code for the LCD display?
    • The HD44780-compatible LCD pinout is shown in the leaflet provided with the displays which you can see by clicking on the first picture in the blog entry. The top row is normal 5x7 characters and works just like on a normal 16x2 LCD (i.e. they are all consecutive one one line rather than divided into two groups like on 16x1 displays) and the bottom row of symbols are activated as described in the blog entry.
    • The LCD that requires elastomeric connectors (and which I forgot to include in the photograph) - I haven't attempted to use that yet.
    • The little OLED displays - the eBay adapter board arrived and I got a display working and I've made a DS1307 clock demo that has so far been running for over two weeks off the same pair of AA rechargeables on the minimum brightness setting. I will make a schematic and post the example in Finished User PICAXE Projects soon. The OLED is definitely blue.
    If I haven't answered your question properly, ask again and give more detail.
    My progress. I had a thought... use the AXE133 firmware and adapt that. The normal commands all work to line 1 of the device. This includes position cursor control etc.

    I am trying to figure out the bottom line addressing. I have contacted a guy on another forum to see if he has any insights.

    @nick12ab - can you explain your contrast control a little more.

    Anobium
    Lots of questions.


    Can you post the LCD that requires elastomeric connector? I am not sure I got that device.


    Can you share the the eBay adapter board ? Would you post the URL to the listing?

    The large HD44780 LCD. I have the top line operational but I cannot address the symbols. Any hints please..?
    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    Can you post the LCD that requires elastomeric connector? I am not sure I got that device.
    I will take a picture and add it to the blog entry shortly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    can you explain your contrast control a little more.
    I've taken a picture to show you and I will add it to the blog entry shortly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    Can you share the the eBay adapter board ? Would you post the URL to the listing?
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120688893594

    I mounted the OLED on the PCB with the PCB having its through-hole connectors at the bottom and the OLED's connector soldered to the 0.7 pads with the screen facing down and overhanging the top of the PCB. Once it had been soldered, I then folded the display over so that it faced upwards and blu-tacked it to the flex.

    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    The large HD44780 LCD. I have the top line operational but I cannot address the symbols. Any hints please..?
    The symbols start with address 192, just like it would do if there were actual character places there.
    Well done on the OLED!!! I must place order eBay. I will wait for your code - well done.



    Here is the table of information that I have created this evening. I am using the standard AXE133 code as the Picaxe interface to the LCD, 8-bit. (I know think I code use 4-bit by pulling D0-D3 to ground which I failed to do yesterday - but, it ho hum).

    I think the symbols are in two pairs, addressed as you say by the characters but the addressing is as shown in the routines below.

    So, the first two are address @ 254,193, "D"|"J"|"E"|" " The space clears the chars. They run in two step until 199 then 1, then back to two step... odd. But, this code does seems to work.


    Do you think this is stable?


    ' I have 08m2 to 18m2 to LCD.

    Code:
    #picaxe 08m2
    #no_data
    pause 2000
    
    
    	serout C.2,N2400,(254,1)
    		pause 100
    
    		
    		serout C.2,N2400,(254,128)
    		pause 100
    		serout C.2,N2400,(#b1, ": Testing")
    		pause 100
    
    		' First two chars
    		' L1
    		'serout C.2,N2400,(254,193,"D")
    		' L2
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,193,"J")
    		' both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,193,"E")
    		
    		' Second two chars
    		' L3
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,195,"D")
    		' kw
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,195,"J")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,195,"E")
    		
    		' Third two chars
    		' h
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,197,"D")
    		' kvar
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,197,"J")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,197,"E")
    
    		' Forth two chars
    		' h
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,199,"D")
    		' (Down chevron)!
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,199,"J")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,199,"E")
    		
    		' Fifth two chars
    		' Circle
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,200,"D")
    		' Square
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,200,"J")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,200,"E")
    
    		' sixth two chars
    		' NE Quad
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,202,"D")
    		' NW Quad
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,202,"J")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,202,"E")
    
    
    		' seventh two chars
    		' SW Quad
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,204,"I")
    		' SE Quad
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,204,"H")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,204,"E")
    
    		' last two chars
    		'  both = house
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,206,"E")
    		
    
    do 
    			' NE Quad
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,202,"D")
    			 pause 250
    			
    			' NW Quad
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,202,"J")
    			pause 250
    
    			' blank
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,202," ")
    
    			 
    			' SW Quad
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,204,"I")
    			pause 250
    
    			' SE Quad
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,204,"H")
    			pause 250
    
    			' blank
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,204," ")
    			
    loop
    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    So, the first two are address @ 254,193, "D"|"J"|"E"|" " The space clears the chars. They run in two step until 199 then 1, then back to two step... odd. But, this code does seems to work.


    Do you think this is stable?
    I know that the symbols weren't in a logical order. I disassembled my test circuit a while ago but I might get around to finding out the addresses for each part.

    Anyway, OLED clock demo now posted.
    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    Do you think this is stable?
    I cannot see anything wrong with that code. I will be reassembling a test circuit to find out the exact address of each symbol on the LCD.
    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    Can you post the LCD that requires elastomeric connector? I am not sure I got that device.
    Did you get the LCD that requires elastomeric connector, a surface mount 7 segment display or something else?

    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    Well done on the OLED!!! I must place order eBay. I will wait for your code - well done.
    Have your adapter boards arrived yet?
    Hi,

    Thanks for the helpful article. I've got the LCD working with my Arduino (LEDs and button too), and I'm wondering what I could do with the OLED displays. Do you think that they might fit into a breakout board like this one?

    http://proto-pic.co.uk/ffc-breakout-board/

    Soldering anything onto those little tabs is a bit beyond my ability!

    Thanks,
    alec
    Quote Originally Posted by alecw
    and I'm wondering what I could do with the OLED displays. Do you think that they might fit into a breakout board like this one?

    http://proto-pic.co.uk/ffc-breakout-board/
    You can't use that breakout board because it does not have enough pins and the tab is too wide to fit in that.

    Soldering it is not as difficult as it looks - purchase a breakout board like the one in my pictures, apply solder to the appropriate pitch connector, line up the OLED with the connector then apply solder to a few pins at a time while gently pressing down with the soldering iron.
    Hi Nick,

    Thanks for the reply. I'll have a go

    alec
    I have the connector/adapter off Ebay. A great piece of advice as I would never have been able to locate the adaptor.

    Currently travelling so no time for the project until I get back soon. I test align the connectors and they are accurately aligned.

    Thanks for helping. I just to stop travelling for work so I can get back to my project.
    All, just checked out my local Maplin (Leeds). One pack left on sale. Connectors on both oled displays clearly knackered. There is another Maplin in Leeds and others in Wakefield & Sheffield, might check them out.

    Paul
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulRB
    All, just checked out my local Maplin (Leeds). One pack left on sale. Connectors on both oled displays clearly knackered.
    You should have tried to get a discount. Say that the OLEDs are the most valuable parts in the bag and try to get £2 off (well, the only component that's possibly more valuable than the OLEDs is the AMPY 2001-11 LCD)

    The worst they can do is say "No".
    To be honest, the oleds were the most interesting to me, because of the small size and i2c interface. I already have a few 16x2 lcd cheap from china.
    Managed to find a pack in the other Leeds Maplin with oled connectors in decent looking condition. Have also ordred some dip adaptors from China on eBay. I bought a pack of 10 adaptors so hopefully will have a few available to sell or swap eventually.

    Nick, would you mind describing in more detail the easiest way to solder these? I've never tackled smd devices before. Cheers.
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulRB
    Nick, would you mind describing in more detail the easiest way to solder these? I've never tackled smd devices before. Cheers.
    First put leaded solder on the contacts on the 0.7 connector. Do this by feeding the solder into the tip of the soldering iron while running the tip from one end of the connector to the other. Fresh solder should not create any solder bridges between each pad - if this happens add more solder. Minimize the time that the soldering iron is melting the solder for.

    Hold the OS96016PP08MB2B10 OLED with the display facing down and the IC on the tab facing upwards. Line up the connector with the connector on the PCB (positioned like this here) and solder the pins in small groups by gently pressing down on the connector with the soldering iron tip, adding extra solder if necessary. Once soldered, fold the display part over so that it faces upwards and stick in place with blu tack. Now solder the headers to the provided holes.

    P.S. Can you tell me what 10 items you got in your lucky bag? The contents does vary slightly between lucky bags.
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