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nick12ab

LCD/LED/OLED assorted displays 'lucky bags' at Maplin 1 (N01CG) Kemo Electronic S043

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Finally a bargain at Maplin - this for only £3.99! Or it was - the selection has now been downgraded to one OS96016PP08MB2B10 OLED Display and no AMPY-2001-11 LCD and the price has been put up to £4.29. However... (see comments)



Yes - the display options do include a HD44780-compatible LCD (AMPY2001-11) which has a built-in button and two LEDs and also an OLED display. Best of all, almost every component can be used with a PICAXE and they are actually useful (rather than useless 'just-for-fun' gimmicky components that you'll never actually use for a real application).

All of the five that I saw in store (the first time) had per bag: one HD44780-compatible LCD, two OLED displays, one 1cm high 4-digit 7 segment display, two 0.5" 7-segment displays, two 0.3" 7-segment displays, an 8-LED light bar (not a bargraph display), and finally either a rectangular LCD (5cm diagonal) which requires those elastomeric connectors and has various 7-segment patterns or a surface mount 7-segment LED display. All the LED displays are red and the OLED is blue. The LEDs on the HD44780-compatible display are bright red.

At £3.99 this pack is cheap not only compared to Maplin prices but compared to eBay prices too!

Kemo stick whatever cheap surplus stuff they can get their hands on in the bag so the contents will vary from time to time. Here are some of the items you can get (click image for big version):



Going left to right, down to the next row, then left to right again the displays are:
  1. Small 7-seg: LTS-3361JD
  2. Small 7-seg: HDSP-C3L3
  3. Normal 7-seg: unmarked
  4. 4-digit 7-seg: TDCR1050M
  5. Large 7-seg: HDSP-4201
  6. SMT small 7-seg: KCSA39-105-EB
  7. 18-pin LCD glass: DGL-0401YG-4EH
  8. LCD that requires elastomeric connector
  9. Tiny LCD that requires elastomeric connector
  10. OLED: OS96016PP08MB2B10
  11. HD44780-compatible LCD: AMPY2001-11
  12. Large 7-seg: HDSP-C1G3
  13. LED bar: LTL-2685HR
  14. SMT 2 digit 7-seg: KCDC04-105

I wouldn't recommend just buying them on the website as you don't get to see what's in the bag unlike in store. I've previously seen these bags with an inferior selection in store - no HD44780-compatible display, just a few LCDs that require that elastomeric conectors and a few single-digit 7-segment displays and '+1' displays - so you might end up with one of those instead. Also the displays aren't individually packaged and they have the potential to damage each other in the packaging so you'll want to check for that before you buy.

Oddly the bare glass LCDs get no mention in the 'datasheet' (which shows nothing other than the pinouts)

Items that will be covered here:
  • AMPY 2001-11 LCD
  • OS96016PP08MB2B10 OLED
The 7-segment displays and bare glass LCDs will be covered in the other blog entry: LCD/LED/OLED assorted displays 'lucky bags' at Maplin 2 (N01CG) Kemo Electronic S043

Varitronix HD44780-compatible LCD

Markings:
AMPY2001-11
AMPY 2001-11
DISPL3953
CB-AMP2001#6-01

I've put the pinout here but reversed it because the pinout in the datasheet is for the view from the back but you'll usually be wiring it when looking at the front so the reversed pinout can cause you to incorrectly wire the display (and did for me).



After doing some investigation, it looks like these are surplus displays from a power meter. The L1, L2 and L3 symbols suggests that it was a three-phase power meter. Actually it's from a residential power meter that is used in Italy.

This blog entry isn't advertising blurb - there is no documentation included for the HD44780-compatible display apart from a pinout and I couldn't find a datasheet on the internet which was a pain when I discovered that it's a 16x1 LCD with a second row of symbols! The characters themselves are also only 5x7 instead of the more usual 5x8 so take that into account if you want to use CGRAM characters on the first row or the visible cursor.



The symbols are addressed like the characters on a second row of a 16x2 LCD would be. The pixels on the first row of the 5x8 character control the individual parts. See the table below - these pixels are numbered from 1 (top left pixel) to 5 (top right pixel). The character locations for these symbols is about the same as for the 5x8 characters on a 16x2 LCD, but the 'h's are controlled by the character location following the kW/kVar that they are associated with. Also, the ∇ and ! are controlled by the same pixel.



There's no need to define CGRAM characters to use the symbols - certain letters will activate the right pixel(s) and other pixels don't matter. Examples: 'D' for first pixel, 'B' for the first and second to last pixels, 'I' for the second to last pixel only, 'J' for the two last pixels, 'd' for the last pixel only and 'E' for all three pixels.

The LEDs are controlled using transistors built-in to the module and the resistors are built in too. The anodes of the LEDs are connected to one side of the button so that means that if you want to use the LEDs then the button must be wired between power and the input pin, not ground and the input pin.

The only downsides are no backlight, no pin for a manual contrast control without modifying it (see below) and the symbols mean that you cannot change the viewing direction (which is 12:00). There is a built-in resistor for the correct contrast level at 4.5-5V but if you want to use the display at 3V and use a negative voltage generator charge pump for the contrast control, you'll need to mod it. Once modded, the LCD module can be powered by 3V if an external negative voltage generator is used. If you won't use the symbols, you can initialize the LCD for one line (instead of two) which will be beneficial if using 3xAA batteries.

To add an external contrast control, R13 needs to be removed and a wire run from the VLCD pad to the unused pin 18 on the connector as shown in the picture below. Click the picture to view full size.



OLED Displays

Marking: OS96016PP08MB2B10



The OLED uses an SSD0303 and gives you many interface options including parallel, SPI and i2c. The pinout of the OLED can be found on page 44 of that datasheet as well as the leaflet included with the pack of assorted displays. The OLED is also easily dimmable through software commands, unlike some OLEDs which require modification.

The OLED is blue - the shade of blue it uses looks nice in real life and is a deeper shade than in the photo above - the screen burn-in example below is closer to the real colour. Oddly the OLED also needs to be up side down to get the correct addressing - you'd expect the right way up to be with the tab at the bottom but the right way up is with the tab at the top - but that does allow you to fold the tab behind the OLED and have the breakout board with the pins at the bottom. The SSD0303 command set does allow you to 'reverse' the addressing but that only works somewhat and just caused confusion when I tried it.

Use of an adapter board like the one shown in the photo (search for 'tft to dip' on eBay) is essential if you want to use the display on breadboard or stripboard - you can't just solder jumper wires to the connections and bend them to fit in a breadboard since the connections are fragile and you will break them if you do this. This is another reason to inspect the displays before buying the bag - the displays are just floating around in the bag so the fragile connector could get damaged on another display.


Note: These OLED Displays are very vulnerable to screen burn (particularly on the brighter settings), unlike the Winstar OLEDs sold by Rev-Ed. Running the clock demo for more than a few minutes on the bright setting or a few weeks on the dimmest setting will cause visible screen burn-in.

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Updated 22-11-2013 at 12:28 by nick12ab

Categories
LCD/LED/OLED stuff

Comments

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    Found out how to add an external contrast control - remove R13 from the board, then run a wire from the conveniently marked VLCD pad to pin 18 on the connector which is normally unused.
    Nick, your PM message box is full.

    Cheers,

    Buzby
    How did you progress with the code for the LCD display?

    But, the components are still very good value for money.
    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    How did you progress with the code for the LCD display?
    • The HD44780-compatible LCD pinout is shown in the leaflet provided with the displays which you can see by clicking on the first picture in the blog entry. The top row is normal 5x7 characters and works just like on a normal 16x2 LCD (i.e. they are all consecutive one one line rather than divided into two groups like on 16x1 displays) and the bottom row of symbols are activated as described in the blog entry.
    • The LCD that requires elastomeric connectors (and which I forgot to include in the photograph) - I haven't attempted to use that yet.
    • The little OLED displays - the eBay adapter board arrived and I got a display working and I've made a DS1307 clock demo that has so far been running for over two weeks off the same pair of AA rechargeables on the minimum brightness setting. I will make a schematic and post the example in Finished User PICAXE Projects soon. The OLED is definitely blue.
    If I haven't answered your question properly, ask again and give more detail.
    My progress. I had a thought... use the AXE133 firmware and adapt that. The normal commands all work to line 1 of the device. This includes position cursor control etc.

    I am trying to figure out the bottom line addressing. I have contacted a guy on another forum to see if he has any insights.

    @nick12ab - can you explain your contrast control a little more.

    Anobium
    Lots of questions.


    Can you post the LCD that requires elastomeric connector? I am not sure I got that device.


    Can you share the the eBay adapter board ? Would you post the URL to the listing?

    The large HD44780 LCD. I have the top line operational but I cannot address the symbols. Any hints please..?
    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    Can you post the LCD that requires elastomeric connector? I am not sure I got that device.
    I will take a picture and add it to the blog entry shortly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    can you explain your contrast control a little more.
    I've taken a picture to show you and I will add it to the blog entry shortly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    Can you share the the eBay adapter board ? Would you post the URL to the listing?
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120688893594

    I mounted the OLED on the PCB with the PCB having its through-hole connectors at the bottom and the OLED's connector soldered to the 0.7 pads with the screen facing down and overhanging the top of the PCB. Once it had been soldered, I then folded the display over so that it faced upwards and blu-tacked it to the flex.

    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    The large HD44780 LCD. I have the top line operational but I cannot address the symbols. Any hints please..?
    The symbols start with address 192, just like it would do if there were actual character places there.
    Well done on the OLED!!! I must place order eBay. I will wait for your code - well done.



    Here is the table of information that I have created this evening. I am using the standard AXE133 code as the Picaxe interface to the LCD, 8-bit. (I know think I code use 4-bit by pulling D0-D3 to ground which I failed to do yesterday - but, it ho hum).

    I think the symbols are in two pairs, addressed as you say by the characters but the addressing is as shown in the routines below.

    So, the first two are address @ 254,193, "D"|"J"|"E"|" " The space clears the chars. They run in two step until 199 then 1, then back to two step... odd. But, this code does seems to work.


    Do you think this is stable?


    ' I have 08m2 to 18m2 to LCD.

    Code:
    #picaxe 08m2
    #no_data
    pause 2000
    
    
    	serout C.2,N2400,(254,1)
    		pause 100
    
    		
    		serout C.2,N2400,(254,128)
    		pause 100
    		serout C.2,N2400,(#b1, ": Testing")
    		pause 100
    
    		' First two chars
    		' L1
    		'serout C.2,N2400,(254,193,"D")
    		' L2
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,193,"J")
    		' both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,193,"E")
    		
    		' Second two chars
    		' L3
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,195,"D")
    		' kw
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,195,"J")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,195,"E")
    		
    		' Third two chars
    		' h
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,197,"D")
    		' kvar
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,197,"J")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,197,"E")
    
    		' Forth two chars
    		' h
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,199,"D")
    		' (Down chevron)!
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,199,"J")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,199,"E")
    		
    		' Fifth two chars
    		' Circle
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,200,"D")
    		' Square
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,200,"J")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,200,"E")
    
    		' sixth two chars
    		' NE Quad
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,202,"D")
    		' NW Quad
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,202,"J")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,202,"E")
    
    
    		' seventh two chars
    		' SW Quad
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,204,"I")
    		' SE Quad
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,204,"H")
    		'  both
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,204,"E")
    
    		' last two chars
    		'  both = house
    		' serout C.2,N2400,(254,206,"E")
    		
    
    do 
    			' NE Quad
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,202,"D")
    			 pause 250
    			
    			' NW Quad
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,202,"J")
    			pause 250
    
    			' blank
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,202," ")
    
    			 
    			' SW Quad
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,204,"I")
    			pause 250
    
    			' SE Quad
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,204,"H")
    			pause 250
    
    			' blank
    			 serout C.2,N2400,(254,204," ")
    			
    loop
    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    So, the first two are address @ 254,193, "D"|"J"|"E"|" " The space clears the chars. They run in two step until 199 then 1, then back to two step... odd. But, this code does seems to work.


    Do you think this is stable?
    I know that the symbols weren't in a logical order. I disassembled my test circuit a while ago but I might get around to finding out the addresses for each part.

    Anyway, OLED clock demo now posted.
    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    Do you think this is stable?
    I cannot see anything wrong with that code. I will be reassembling a test circuit to find out the exact address of each symbol on the LCD.
    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    Can you post the LCD that requires elastomeric connector? I am not sure I got that device.
    Did you get the LCD that requires elastomeric connector, a surface mount 7 segment display or something else?

    Quote Originally Posted by Anobium
    Well done on the OLED!!! I must place order eBay. I will wait for your code - well done.
    Have your adapter boards arrived yet?
    Hi,

    Thanks for the helpful article. I've got the LCD working with my Arduino (LEDs and button too), and I'm wondering what I could do with the OLED displays. Do you think that they might fit into a breakout board like this one?

    http://proto-pic.co.uk/ffc-breakout-board/

    Soldering anything onto those little tabs is a bit beyond my ability!

    Thanks,
    alec
    Quote Originally Posted by alecw
    and I'm wondering what I could do with the OLED displays. Do you think that they might fit into a breakout board like this one?

    http://proto-pic.co.uk/ffc-breakout-board/
    You can't use that breakout board because it does not have enough pins and the tab is too wide to fit in that.

    Soldering it is not as difficult as it looks - purchase a breakout board like the one in my pictures, apply solder to the appropriate pitch connector, line up the OLED with the connector then apply solder to a few pins at a time while gently pressing down with the soldering iron.
    Hi Nick,

    Thanks for the reply. I'll have a go

    alec
    I have the connector/adapter off Ebay. A great piece of advice as I would never have been able to locate the adaptor.

    Currently travelling so no time for the project until I get back soon. I test align the connectors and they are accurately aligned.

    Thanks for helping. I just to stop travelling for work so I can get back to my project.
    All, just checked out my local Maplin (Leeds). One pack left on sale. Connectors on both oled displays clearly knackered. There is another Maplin in Leeds and others in Wakefield & Sheffield, might check them out.

    Paul
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulRB
    All, just checked out my local Maplin (Leeds). One pack left on sale. Connectors on both oled displays clearly knackered.
    You should have tried to get a discount. Say that the OLEDs are the most valuable parts in the bag and try to get £2 off (well, the only component that's possibly more valuable than the OLEDs is the AMPY 2001-11 LCD)

    The worst they can do is say "No".
    To be honest, the oleds were the most interesting to me, because of the small size and i2c interface. I already have a few 16x2 lcd cheap from china.
    Managed to find a pack in the other Leeds Maplin with oled connectors in decent looking condition. Have also ordred some dip adaptors from China on eBay. I bought a pack of 10 adaptors so hopefully will have a few available to sell or swap eventually.

    Nick, would you mind describing in more detail the easiest way to solder these? I've never tackled smd devices before. Cheers.
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulRB
    Nick, would you mind describing in more detail the easiest way to solder these? I've never tackled smd devices before. Cheers.
    First put leaded solder on the contacts on the 0.7 connector. Do this by feeding the solder into the tip of the soldering iron while running the tip from one end of the connector to the other. Fresh solder should not create any solder bridges between each pad - if this happens add more solder. Minimize the time that the soldering iron is melting the solder for.

    Hold the OS96016PP08MB2B10 OLED with the display facing down and the IC on the tab facing upwards. Line up the connector with the connector on the PCB (positioned like this here) and solder the pins in small groups by gently pressing down on the connector with the soldering iron tip, adding extra solder if necessary. Once soldered, fold the display part over so that it faces upwards and stick in place with blu tack. Now solder the headers to the provided holes.

    P.S. Can you tell me what 10 items you got in your lucky bag? The contents does vary slightly between lucky bags.
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