Project Box 4X40 LCD

tarzan

Senior Member
Project Box 4x40 LCD

This project box is for semi permanent projects that require housing. It is equipped with AXE022 proto-board, AXE111 data logger memory expander, breadboard area, 40x4 LCD, DS1307 RTC module & infrared PCB.

Using an infrared remote controller negates the need to cut holes in the box for push buttons. Interaction with the Picaxe program is easily achieved by using a 08M2 to monitor irin then passing this incoming data on to the 40X2 master Picaxe via Hserout/Hserin scratchpad background receive. Interrupt on Hserflag, this method doesn’t require timeouts.

Currently this project box is running a version of my Large Digit Clock program, with the addition of displaying the date in large format.

When using AXE022 proto-board with AXE111 data logger memory expander there is an address conflict for EEPROM. The AXE022 EEPROM is at address 001, which can be re-addressed as 000 with a clever trick. This requires two turned machined IC sockets one soldered to the AXE022 proto-board the other IC socket has pin one leg snipped off about half way and filed flat. Then bend a short length of wire into a U shape and solder to pin legs one through four. Now drill a hole through pin one all the way. The drilled hole is to allow the EEPROM leg to seat correctly without bending on insertion; this is done because during this process the hole will become deformed and shorter in length. Now insert the EEPROM into the IC socket and place the assembly into AXE022 proto-board EEPROM socket making sure that there is an air gap between the two IC sockets at pin one location.
 

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tarzan

Senior Member
Project Box 4x40 LCD

Project Box 4x40 LCD

40x4 LCD is driven in 8bit mode by the Master Picaxe controller at 64MHz. As this program is only required to refresh the LCD screen once every second there is plenty of time to manage events. Monitoring the DS1307 1Hz SQW/OUT within a polled loop actions a LCD screen update, time & date are extracted from the DS1307. This data is modified using preprogrammed cgram blocks arranged to represent digits 0 through 9. Once this data is arranged in scratchpad or ram it can be sent on to the LCD, the top three lines are refreshed in one action.
 

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tarzan

Senior Member
Project Box 4x40 LCD

Project Box 4x40 LCD

I always wanted a 4x40 LCD to try out a few ideas for displaying information, now that I have a couple to play with I have built project boxes to house them. I find that breadboards are ideal for experimental projects no need to commit to anything permanent at this stage and the lid will keep the dust out which I find to be a problem around here.

Seldom do the affixing lungs within a project box match the components installed. To mount components I make a base plate from Perspex or similar material cut to fit the box layout with holes aligned to the fixing lungs. Then I can make as many holes as I like to attach my components to this base plate. It’s much like a PCB in that it holds components in place.

There is a view port for infrared control this should alleviate the need for buttons allover the casing giving a clean external appearance.

This picture shows my second attempt at spray-painting the window for 4X40 LCD on a clear plastic faceplate, still not happy with the edging will have to do again. My first attempt failed because I removed the paper protection before painting. This allowed chemicals from the painting process to attack the plastic giving it a poor appearance.
 

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tarzan

Senior Member
Project Box 4x40 LCD

Project Box 4x40 LCD

Power input 9V to 12V DC (wall wart) with inline fuse via barrel socket plug is switched and download barrel socket are on backside of box.
 

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tarzan

Senior Member
Project Box 4x40 LCD

Project Box 4x40 LCD

At the start of my programs I include the file name and interrogate the (X2) chip for details about itself. This information is displayed via the serial terminal; it includes revision number, firmware version, silicon die and Picaxe type. This information can help in keeping one’s sanity some time later when trying to find the file that’s downloaded to the Picaxe microprocessor.

I also use collapsing blocks with headers displayed, this allows for easy locating of sub procedures and the alike at a glance. Collapsing blocks within blocks is also allowed which is also useful when dealing with code that is related.
 

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westaust55

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When using AXE022 proto-board with AXE111 data logger memory expander there is an address conflict for EEPROM. The AXE022 EEPROM is at address 001, which can be re-addressed as 000 with a clever trick. This requires two turned machined IC sockets one soldered to the AXE022 proto-board the other IC socket has pin one leg snipped off about half way and filed flat. Then bend a short length of wire into a U shape and solder to pin legs one through four. Now drill a hole through pin one all the way.
I took a more brute force approach with one of my AXE022 boards. :eek:
On the underside of the AXE022 board, I just carefully cut the copper track to pin 1 (A0) and soldered a short wire from pin 1 to ground.
 

tarzan

Senior Member
Project Box 4x40 LCD

Project Box 4x40 LCD​

Making a faceplate for a project box with a window for an LCD has been a problem that I have struggled with for some time. Short of paying someone to print the layout on some clear plastic I have come up with a solution that should be achievable to most of you.​

There are three layers to the faceplate first is a sheet of stiff clear plastic the second is a transparent film that is used with ink jet printers and the third is an opaque card or plastic of a suitable colour to match your project box.​

It is important that all three layers are able to fit within the slot inside the project box. If this is not achievable you are likely to have significant problems with alignment and keeping all three layers flat against one another.​

I used a drawing application to create a print out it consists of an outline for the window of the LCD, infrared receiver porthole, some text and cut here sizing info. The border outline for the LCD should be made thick as this is used to hide any imperfections that may show through from the cutout in the card that sits behind it.
Printing on transparent film with an ink jet printer requires the correct type of film, it has fine scratches on one side to allow the ink to penetrate the surface. I run the film through the printer three times to build up enough ink to become sufficiently opaque your printer may not require this, experimentation is required.​

The opaque card or plastic that makes up the last piece has a hole cutout to view the LCD through. To make a radius at the inside corners I used a hole punch, it is difficult to cut these corner without using this technique. The hole punch was also use for the infrared porthole.​

So there you have it looks professional but something you can do yourself with items that aren’t too difficult to get a hold of.
 

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